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कोल्हापुरातील कोपेश्वर मंदिरात इतिहासाची पानं उलटली, थेट रोमन साम्राज्याशी कनेक्शन
सोज्वळ साळी यांनी आजपर्यंत महाराष्ट्रातील विविध शहरात असलेल्या मंदिरात, लेणीमध्ये व टेकडीवर प्राचीन पटखेळ (बैठेखेळ) शोधलेले आहेत. ज्यात नासिकमधील त्रिरश्मी लेणी, गोंदेश्वर मंदिर, अंकाई लेणी, ढग्या डोंगर, त्रिंगलवाडी लेणी, पासून लोणार सरोवराभोवती असलेल्या मंदिरामध्ये तसेच महाराष्ट्रातील ५० पेक्षा जास्त ठिकाणांवर पटखेळ शोधलेली आहेत. महाराष्ट्रात ९०० पेक्षा जास्त खेळांचे दस्तऐवजीकरण करण्याचे काम वैभवशाली प्राचीन लिपी ट्रस्टच्या “ प्राचीन पटखेळ संवर्धन मोहिमेंतर्गत” सुरु आहे.
प्राचीन व्यापारी मार्गांवर व्यापारी, प्रवासी, पर्यटक यांची संख्या मोठ्या प्रमाणावर महाराष्ट्रात प्रवास होत असल्याचे निदर्शनास आले आहे. खिद्रापूर येथील कोपेश्वर मंदिर, खिद्रापूर या मंदिराच्या सभामंडपात रोमन साम्राज्य व रोमन व्यापाराचा नाइन मेन्स मॉरीस व पंचखेलीया या खेळांचे अवशेष सापडले. पंचखेळीया/पंचखेलीया हा खेळ श्रीलंकेतील विसाव्या शतकाच्या सुरुवातीचा खेळ असून हा खेळ बैठे खेळातील शर्यतीचा खेळ म्हणून ओळखला जातो.
लाखो भक्तांच्या गर्दी, गुलालानं न्हाऊन निघालेल्या जोतिबा डोंगराची ड्रोन दृश्य
नवकंकरी या खेळाला मराठीत फरे-मरे या नावानेसुद्धा ओळखले जाते. तर इंग्रजीमध्ये दि मिल गेम, मेर्रील्स, नाईन पेंनी मार्ल, व उत्तर अमेरिकेत कॉवबॉव चेकर्स यानावाने ओळखले जाते. नाइन मेन्स म्हणजे ९ माणसे म्हणजेच हा खेळ २ खेळाडू बसून खेळू शकतात. या खेळाचे इतर ३ प्रकार पाहावयास मिळतात ज्यात ३ मेन्स मॉरिस, ६ मेन्स मॉरिस, १२ मेन्स मॉरिस हे आहेत. या खेळाचे नियम हे फुल्ली-गोळा प्रमाणे असले तरी हा धोरणात्मक खेळ आहे.
कोपेश्वर मंदिर हे महाराष्ट्रातील महत्त्वाचे पुरातत्त्वीय दृष्ट्या महत्त्वाचे मंदिर आहे. या मंदिरात असलेल्या स्वर्ग मंडपाचे आकर्षण सर्वांनाच आहे. या मंदिरात असलेले शिल्प, त्यावरील अभूषणे, दिग्पाल याने हे मंदिर नटलेले असल्याचे दिसते. व जगभरातील अनेक पर्यटक प्राचीन काळापासून ते आजपर्यंत येथे येत असल्याचे निदर्शनास येते.
भारताच्या इतिहासात प्राचीन काळापासून ते २० व्या शतकापर्यंत विविध देशातून व्यापार व्यापारासाठी, युद्धासाठी, पर्यटन स्थळे पाहण्यासाठी अनेक प्रवासी येऊन गेले आहेत. ज्यावेळी हे प्रवासी, व्यापारी महाराष्ट्रातून गेले त्यावेळी विश्रांतीच्या वेळी व पावसाळ्यात प्रवास न करता एका ठिकाणी मनोरंजन कसे होईल त्यासाठी त्यांच्या देशात असलेले पट-खेळ कोरून ते खेळल्याचे दिसते. सदरील खेळांचा इतिहास पाहता हे खेळ सुमारे २००० वर्षापेक्षा जुने आहेत.
कोप्पम अर्थात खिद्रापूर ची ऐतिहासिक पार्श्वभूमी
खिद्रापूर या गावाचे प्राचीन काळातील नाव कोप्पम असे होते.यास पुरावा म्हणून सुप्रसिद्ध अश्या कोपेश्वर मंदिराच्या दक्षिणेकडील दरवाजाला लागूनच असलेल्या भिंतीवरील शिलालेखात हे नाव आढळते. हा शिलालेख इ.स १२१३ मधील असून यादव राजा सिंघणदेव द्वितीय याचा आहे.तसेच कर्नाटक राज्यातील गुलबर्गा जिल्हा मध्ये येऊर येथील एका शिलालेखात सुद्धा कोप्पम हे नाव येते. हा शिलालेख इ.स १०७७ चा असल्याने खिद्रापूर ची ऐतिहासिक पार्श्वभूमी ११ व्या शतकापर्यंत मागे जाते.
कोपेश्वर मंदिराचे अस्तित्त्व :
१०७७ मध्ये कोपेश्वर मंदिर छोटेखानी का होईना अस्तित्वात असावे याचे कारण येऊर च्या शिलालेखात शंकर आर्य नावाच्या व्यक्तीने पुत्रप्राप्ती साठी कोप्पम मधील कोप्प देवाची ( कोपेश्वर) ची अनेक व्रत करून पूजा केली.
कोपेश्वर : महाराष्ट्राचे कुरुक्षेत्र..!!
महामहोपाध्याय वा.वी.मिराशी यांनी खिद्रापूर परिसराला कुरुक्षेत्राची उपमा दिली आहे.ती किती सार्थ आहे हे आपल्याला पुढील बाबीवरून समजते
१- इ.स ११ व्या शतकाच्या मध्यावर दक्षिणेतून उत्तरेकडे आक्रमणे वाढली होती. परमप्रतापी चोल राजवंश त्यांच्या राज्याच्या सीमा रुंदावत महाराष्ट्रापर्यंत आला होता.त्यावेळी आपला महाराष्ट्र उत्तरं कालीन चालुक्य राजवंशाच्या हाताखाली होता. चौल सम्राट राजाधिराज १ ला याने महाराष्ट्र राज्यावर आक्रमण केले होते. त्याची अजस्त्र सेना अवाढव्य हत्तिदळ, अश्वदळ सह कृष्णा नदीच्या तीरावर येऊन स्थिरावले होते. मंदाध हत्ती व तेवढेच तगडे सैन्य असल्याने खिद्रापूर ला रणभूमीचे स्वरूप आले होते.त्यांना प्रतिकार कार्यासाठी सज्ज होता चालुक्य राजा पहिला सोमेश्वर अर्थात अहमल्लदेव.
ही घटना आहे सन १०५८ ची जेव्हा चालुक्यांनी पराक्रमाची नुसती शर्थच केली नाही तर राजाधिराज चोल चा पराभव करीत त्याच्या सैन्याचा धुव्वा उडविला या लढाईत राजाधिराज चोल मारण पावला. महाराष्ट्राच्या सुपुत्रांचा हा पराक्रमाचा वारसा आहे.जो आज ही सहसा कोणाच्या लक्षात येत नाही म्हणूनच हा सर्व प्रपंच..
(क्रमशः)
©इतिहासदर्पण
If I were to tell you the names ‘Kopeshwar’ or ‘Khidrapur’, in all probability I shall receive a blank look from you. Even I was not aware of them till December 2018 !!
In an obscure Indian village in interior Maharashtra (65 kms from Kolhapur) adjacent to Karnataka border lies an ancient architectural treasure not much known to the world outside and yet to figure on the regular tourist map. Only serious lovers of Indian architecture & archaeology make an attempt to visit it and come back mesmerized with its craftsmanship – the exquisitely carved figures of Indian gods, goddesses, dancers, musicians, elephants etc. all around the temple in several layers leave you wonder struck. I am talking about the Kopeshwar Mahadev Temple in the village called Khidrapur on the banks of river Krishna.
It was the last week of December 2018 and after visiting the Karla & Bhaja Caves at Lonavala, I was on a solo trip to Kolhapur and Hampi. Before that trip I had never heard of this temple. While searching for the places around Kolhapur, I stumbled upon this temple and immediately decided to visit this temple during my trip. The nearly 100 mins drive from Kolhapur via Narsobachiwadi and Jaysingpur is through rich lush green sugarcane plantations interspersed with Banana plantations at some places.
Historical perspective:
No authentic historical records are available on this temple. It is believed that the construction of the temple was started in the 8th century during the Chalukya period but remained incomplete due to frequent invasions and battles. It was only in the late 11th & early 12th century during the reign of the Shilahara kings of Kolhapur region – Gandaraditya, Vijayaditya and Bhoj-II that the temple could be completed. Later as per an inscription found in the temple, its renovation took place during the time of next dynasty of Seuna Yadavas of Deogiri during the period of king Singhana in the 13th century. As the temple seems to have been completed in stages over centuries the shape of the Shikhar does not exactly go very well with the design of the rest of the temple !! The Shikhar actually has a distinctive style not seen in other temples.
Unique features of the temple: This temple has unique features that is never seen in any other Shiva temple. The sanctum sanctorum has two lingas and the temple does not have a Nandi. One Linga represents Vishnu as ‘Dhopeshwar’ and the other Linga represents Shiva as ‘Kopeshwar’ !!!
Mythological Story of the temple:
The mythological narration goes as follows: Shiva’s wife Sati went to her father’s Yagya uninvited against her husband’s wishes. At the Yagya, she was not welcomed by her father and he heaped insults on her husband Shiva. Sati was humiliated & hurt in front of the august gathering and she sacrificed her life by jumping into the burning fire of the yagya. On learning about the death of Sati at her father’s yagya, Shiva became furious & enraged (Kop), opened his third eye and started his Tandav. The devtas got scared as they feared that Shiva would destroy the three worlds. They all rushed to Vishnu with a request to pacify Shiva. According to local beliefs Daksha used to live in a place near Khidrapur. Shiva in fury came there and in anger cut the head of Daksha. After much cajoling from Vishnu Daksha’s life was restored but the head was replaced with that of a goat. Vishnu managed to bring Shiva to nearby Khidrapur and somehow managed to wash (dho) away his anger there. Hence Shiva is depicted as Kopeshwar and Vishnu as Dhopeshwar. Vishnu also decided to reside there along with Shiva – hence the presence of two lingas. This is the only temple in India where Vishnu is also depicted in the form of a linga. Strange isn’t it ??? The reason why no Nandi can be seen is because Shiva had directed Nandi to go along with Sati to her father’s place. So Nandi was not with Shiva at that time. He was also enraged with Nandi for not being able to save Sati and banished him. To this day according to the locals there is another temple on the other side of the river that houses only a Nandi sculpture!! Another interesting ritual is followed in this temple during the summer months- the Abhishek of Shivling is done with Dahi Bhaat (curd & rice) to keep Shiva cool !!!
Architectural beauty of the temple:
This temple is an architectural marvel -several layers of exquisite carved sculptures all around the exterior wall of the temple leave the visitor wonderstruck & mesmerized. It seems as if you are reading a poetry in stone and after reading every line you involuntarily say wah !! One can spend an entire day gazing at them !!!
There are friezes of gods & godesses including Shiva, Parvati, Vishnu, Brahma, Durga, Ganesh etc., celestial maidens in different poses, mythological beasts etc. There are elephants all around the temple at the lower level and the gods are seen riding them. It seems as if the weight of the entire temple is being carried by the 92 elephants. Trunks of all the elephants except two or three have been destroyed by invaders during attack on the temple.
The temple is divided in 5 parts. The main entrance is very simple gives you the feeling of entering a fortress. Probably the wall around the temple was built much later due to frequent attack by the invaders who have destroyed or damaged quite a bit of the priceless sculptures. One has to then go through the Nagarkhana (the place for the trumpeters) and enter the big courtyard. Then one enters the Swargamandap and then a narrow passage leads you to the Sabhamandap. Thereafter the vestibule or Antaral is square in shape and leads you to the Girbagruha !!
The Swarga Mandap is an exquisitely carved structure with an open to the sky ceiling which is the most unique feature of this temple. It is a wonderful feeling to stand on the large circular stone disc surrounded by 48 carved pillars with an opening to the sky. The inside edge has 12 deities carved on them. There are 8 deities which represent 8 directions, collectively called Digpals. In addition, there are 4 images of Vishnu, Kartik, Sun, and Shiva. All the deities are riding their respective vehicles with their consorts except Kartik who is believed to be a Brahmachari or single.
The Sabha Mandap is a part of the main temple. Lower panels on both sides of the entry door have Dwarpalas, 5 on each side. There are 60 pillars & columns here all distinct from each other.
The latticed windows have flowers carved at intersections, each with a unique design.
Each pillar has Kirtimukh carved on it, each in a different style with different motifs.
Two Panchatantra tales are carved on the pillars. One is that of a Monkey and a Crocodile, another is that of the tortoise carried by two swans.
The masterpiece of Sabha Mandap is the Dwarpala outside. It is finely embellished.
There are beautiful celestial maidens or madanikas carved all around the temple. They represent beautiful damsels in various moods representing feminine charm and grace.
Jain temple at Khidrapur
Not many are aware that there is an ancient Jain temple in Khidrapur some 200 metres away from Kopeshwar temple and was built sometime later than Kopeshwar temple though the exact history of the temple is not available. It is surrounded by pucca houses belonging to well to do members of Jain community. The temple is dedicated to Adinath Bhagwan – the first Tirthankar of the Jains. . It is smaller than Kopeshwar temple , the vestibule being twenty-one feet square with a small antechamber and shrine and the outer wall of the temple is star-shaped in Hemadpanti style. It also has beautiful sculptures of goddesses and exquisitely carved damsels in various poses. The temple has a Nandadeep in front of it.
One song ‘Bhola Bhandari …. ‘ (song is in Hindi) of a famous Marathi movie of 2015 ‘Katyar Kaljat Ghusli’ was shot in the Swargmandap of Kopeshwar temple. Ever since then many people in Maharashtra became aware of this temple.
Narsobachiwadi of Narsobawadi
It’s only after coming to Kolhapur, I realized that Shri Dattatreya Bhagwan has a large following in this part of India, so much so that Shri Narasimha Saraswathi, a great saint & philosopher of 13th century who lived at Narsobawadi for 13 years is believed to be his Purna avatar and his temple at Narsobawadi, 50 kms from Kolhapur is visited by lakhs of devotees. Thursdays of Margshirsh month are believed to be special days and when I visited the temple it happened to be a Thursday. There was a huge crowd in the town & the temple.
The temple is located at a scenic spot on the banks of river Krishna and the confluence of Krishna & Panchganga can be seen here. There is no image in the temple – only padukas are there and they are worshipped. From the parking area one has to walk more than 500 meters and there are many interesting shops lined up on both sides selling interesting items. This place is famous for Basundi & Kandi peda and there are several shops & restaurants selling them. I had sitaphal basundi and it was yummy. The peda was also fresh & tasty. The paan tasted like a sweet dish !!! Despite the crowd, the river ghats & bazaar area were clean. Overall a very interesting & enlightening experience.
I had hired a cab from Kolhapur. On my way, I spent about an hour at Narsobawadi and then 3.5 hours at Kopeshwar temple and 30 mins at Jain temple. It was late evening by the time I returned to my hotel at Kolhapur which has decent hotels to cater to every budget.
There is no place to stay in Khidrapur. The closest town is Sangli (36 Kms). The better option is Kolhapur that also has many attractive tourist attractions.
Afterthought: While returning to Kolhapur in the car I was thinking about our ancient temples spread in the interiors of the country not well known and many of them though under the care of ASI or State Archaeology are not well preserved because of paucity of funds or manpower and still many left unprotected with their sculptures damaged, removed, stolen or smuggled out of the country for petty gains by unscrupulous elements. Yet every year we go on building new temples all over the country and outside India, some on a grand, lavish scale spending millions of rupees. We visit the rich & famous temples and add to their wealth by donating or putting money in the hundis. Why can’t we create a National Fund for preservation of our ancient heritage places of worship and other monuments and funds donated to that Fund could qualify for some tax exemption. The rich charitable trusts instead of building new temples should adopt these ancient temples and take care of their upkeep & preservation. Of late I see lot many posts on social media circulating with pics of our famous ancient temples extolling the virtues & craftsmanship of ancient Hindu culture & heritage but how of many those who are forwarding these messages would themselves visit or encourage their family members to actually visit & appreciate these treasures of India. In many of the museums in the USA or European cities which get regular visitors, they have a separate section on India and rare & precious Indian Hindu & Buddhist sculptures are on display there. In Indian cities, there is hardly any interest among the public to visit the archaeological museums and appreciate our ancient art & architecture.
Please visit my Instagram profile at @rameshkabraexplorer and @artheritageofindia_rameshkabra.
I am a Life Member of INTACH, Nasik Chapter.
You can reach me for any queries related to my posts by e-mail at rameshkabra1956@gmail.com
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