सिदलाफडीची प्रागैतिहासिक गुहाचित्रे
खरं तर सिदलाफडीच्या प्रागैतिहासिक गुहेबद्द्ल, तिथल्या चित्रांबद्द्ल माहिती असूनही तिथे जाणे आमच्या मूळच्या योजनेत नव्हतं. एकतर वेळेच्या नियोजनात ते नीट बसत नव्हतं. शिवाय त्यासाठी भरपूर तंगडतोड आवश्यक होती. आणि कालच्या ऐहोळे-पट्टदकलला (ह्याबद्द्ल पुढे लिहिणार आहेच) सकाळपासून संध्याकाळपर्यंत सतत चालणं झालं होतं त्यामुळे आजच्या दिवशी बदामी किल्ला, भूतनाथ मंदिर समूह आणि दुपारनंतर महाकूट आणि बनशंकरी पाहायचे असे ठरवले होते. मात्र ऐहोळे आणि बदामीच्या दोन्ही संग्रहालयात सिडलाफडीची छायाचित्रे पाहून तिथे जायची उर्मी जागृत झाली आणि आत्ता नाही तर कधीच नाही म्हणून जेवल्यानंतर लगेचच महाकूट आणि सिदलाफडीला जाण्याचे ठरवले. आधी सिदलाफडी की आधी महाकूट असे ठरवताना महाकूटला संध्याकाळ झाली तरी चालण्यासारखे होते मात्र सिदलाफडीचा रस्ता अगदी निर्जन असल्याने ते आधी करण्याचे ठरवले आणि सिदलाफडीला निघालो. बदामीपासून बदामी रेल्वे स्टेशन्/ऐहोळे जाण्याच्या वळणाआधीच हॉटेल पॅराडाइझच्या बाजूलाच सिदलाफडीला जाणारा रस्ता आहे. रस्त्याच्या बाजूला एक उद्यान आणि एक कमान आहे. ह्या कमानीतूनच पुढे सिदलाफडीला पोहोचता येते. मात्र हा रस्ता पूर्ण चढणीचा आणि कच्चा आहे. येथून फक्त ट्रॅक्टरसारखीच वाहने जाऊ शकतात. कार अजिबात जाऊ शकत नाही. कमानीजवळच असलेल्या उद्यानापाशी गाडी लावली आणि पुढे निघालो.
सिदलाफडीला जाणारा हा रस्ता जवळपास चार किलोमीटर अंतराचा आहे. जवळपास
निम्मा टप्पा चढणीचा आहे आणि उरलेला निम्मा सपाटीचा आहे. खुरट्या झुडपांतून
जाणार्‍या ह्या रस्त्यावर कुठेही सावली नाही, त्यामुळे उन्हाळ्यात
भरदुपारी येथे येताना भरपूर पाणी आणि इथल्या तीव्र उन्हातून चालण्याची
मानसिक तयारी आवश्यक. इथून जाताना सुरुवातीचा चढ चढून गेल्यावर एक
रेडियो/टीव्ही टॉवर लांबवर आपल्या डाव्या हातास दिसतो. रस्ता चांगलाच रूंद
आणि मळलेला आहे. आपण सरळ ह्या टॉवरच्या दिशेने चालू पडायचे. सुरुवातीच्या
चढाईने छातीचे झालेले भाते आता एका लयीत आलेले असतात आणि आपण वेगाने
टॉवरपाशी आलेलो असतो. आपण बदामीच्या डोंगराच्या माथ्यावर आलेलो असतो आणि
आता आपली पुढची चाल समपातळीवरुन होणारी असते.
सिदलाफडीला जाणारा रस्ता
इथपर्यंत तीव्र चढण आहे. एकच लक्षात ठेवायचे की आपल्याला ह्या टॉवरपाशी जायचे आहे, आणि ठळक रस्ता आपल्याला तिथेच घेऊन जातो.
चुकण्याचा संभव ह्या टॉवरपाशीच आहे. सरळ जाणारा रूंद रस्ता पुढे खालच्या बाजूस असलेल्या एका लहानशा वस्तीपाशी जातो. आणि डाव्या बाजूस वळलेली एक वाट शंभरएक मीटरवर खडकाळ मार्गामुळे हरवून गेलेली दिसते. मात्र टॉवरपाशीच आपण पोहोचायचे हे अवश्य लक्षात असू द्यावे.
टॉवरपाशी परत आपल्याला एक रूंद वाट लागते जी पोहोचवते सिदला फडीला. वाटेत निसर्गाची अनेक भूरुपे दिसू लागतात. माथ्यावरच्या वार्‍यांमुळे, पावसामुळे येथील वालुकाश्मांचे विदारण होऊन अनेक लहान लहान टेकड्यांसदृश खडक येथे दिसू लागतात.
टॉवरच्या पुढची पायवाट
विविध प्रकारची भूरुपे
टॉवर आता मागे पडला होता
सिदला फडीला जाणारा हा रस्ता पूर्णपणे निर्जन आहे. मात्र येथे जनावरांची तशी भिती नाही, मात्र वाटेत आम्हाला केसांचा समावेश असलेल्या वन्यप्राण्यांच्या काही विष्ठा दिसल्या त्यावरुन येथे बिबट्या, तरस, अगदीच कुणी नसले तरी खोकड, कोल्हे असावेत असे वाटते. अजूनही मात्र गुहेचे दर्शन होत नसल्याने पुढे जाताना आपण चुकल्याचे जाणवत राहते पण प्रत्यक्षात तसे नाही. खाली रस्त्यानजीक गाडी लावल्यापासून सुमारे चार किमीची दमदार वाटचाल करुन आपण सिदलाफडी नजीक पोहोचलेलो असतो. अचानक एका वळणापुढून समोर एक कातळ दृगोच्चर होतो, तिच ही सिदलाफडी.
सिदलाफडीचे प्रथम दर्शन
थोडे पुढे जाताच सिदलाफडीची नैसर्गिक कमान दृष्टीपथास येते.
येथून कमानीत जाताना किंचीत खालच्या पातळीवर उतरावे लागते आणि आता सिदलाफडी तिच्या पूर्ण रुपासह आपल्याला सामोरी आलेली असते.
सिदलाफडीचा शब्दशः अर्थ म्हणजे विजेचा खडक. अर्थात येथील कमानीवर वीज पडून येथील छिद्रे तयार झाली आहेत अशी समजूत. दुरुन लहान दिसणारी ही नैसर्गिक कमान प्रत्यक्षात मात्र बरीच रूंद आहे आणि जवळपास तीन पुरुष उंचीची आहे. कमानीत वरच्या बाजूस छिद्रे असल्याने आतमध्ये पुरेसा प्रकाश आहे. आदिमानवांना ही निवार्‍यासाठी ही आदर्श जागा वाटल्यास त्यात काहीच नवल नाही. खालच्या पातळीवर असल्याने ऊन वार्‍यांपासून नैसर्गिक संरक्षण मिळते. आपल्या फावल्या वेळात आदिमनावांनी करमणूक म्हणून येथे सफेद रंगात चित्रे रंगवलेली आहेत. आजमितीस ह्या चित्रांचे स्वरुप बरेचसे अस्पष्ट आहे. येथील वालुकाश्म हा ठिसूळ असल्याने आतील भिंतीची झिरपणार्‍या पाण्याने बरीच हानी झालेली आहे त्यामुळे ह्या चित्रांबद्द्ल तर्कच लढवावे लागतात. संशोधकांनी ह्या चित्रांचा कालावधी कमीतकमी ३००० वर्षे जुना असा मानला आहे. गुहेच्या दोन्ही बाजूंच्या भिंतींवर काही स्पष्ट तर काही अस्पष्ट अशी चित्रे नजरेस पडतात.
सिदलाफडीचा नैसर्गिक निवारा आतील बाजूने
गुहेच्या वरच्या भागातील छिद्रे जी वीजेमुळे पडली आहेत असे मानले जाते.
आता काही चित्रे पाहूयात.
हे एका लहान मुलीचे चित्र दिसते
इथले सर्वात सुस्पष्ट आणि चटकन ओळखू येणारे असे चित्र म्हणजे बैलाचे
हे पक्ष्याचे चित्र दिसतेय. त्याची चोच, मस्तक, शरीर, पाय नीट दिसतात. बाजूला त्याची पिल्ले किंवा इतर काहीतरी पायांसारखी चित्रे आहेत
हा बहुधा विंचू किंवा चार पायांवर चालणारा कुणीतरी प्राणी
हे चित्र नीटसे ओळखू येत नाही, कुणीतरी प्राणी असावा. ही चित्रे खूपच अस्पष्ट असल्याने आपल्याला येथे ती ओळखण्यासाठी आपल्या कल्पनांना पूर्ण वाव आहे.
हे बहुधा शिकार्‍याचे चित्र असावे
येथे अजूनही काही चित्रे दिसत राहतात, त्यात हल्लीच्या नवकलाकारांची कलाकारीही दिसते. प्राचीन वास्तूंची हानी होण्याचा शाप ह्या स्थळालाही मिळाला आहेच.
खरे तर येथील चित्रे सरकारने संरक्षित करणे आवश्यक आहे अन्यथा मनुष्यांच्या वावराने येथील चित्रांचा लवकरच नाश होईल. सिदलाफडीबाबत मात्र एक सांगणे अगत्याचे वाटते ते असे की येथे भीमबेटकासारखी अद्भुतरम्य चित्रे, अत्यंत सुस्पष्ट चित्रे असतील, संख्येने भरपूर चित्रे असतील अशी कल्पना करुन अजिबात येऊ नये. येथील चित्रे अगदी साधी, चुन्याने रंगवलेली अशी पांढर्‍या रंगाचीच आहे. मात्र येथे येणारी सुरेख वाट, सुरेख कमान आणि आपण हंटर - गॅदरर्सच्या जगातील प्रागैतिहास असं काही अद्भूतरम्य पाहतो आहोत जे आपण पूर्वी कधीही पाहिलेले, अनुभवलेले नाही असे वाटणार्‍यांनी येथे हमखास आणि अवश्य यावे. बदामीस येऊन हे ठिकाण न चुकवण्याजोगेच.
आता जवळपास चार वाजत आलेले होते. पुढचे महाकूट करायचे असल्याने आम्ही येथून निघालो. टॉवर पार करुन आता पुढे उतार असल्याने झपझप चालत गाडीपाशी आलो आणि तेथून महाकूटला निघालो. मात्र महाकूटवर लिहिण्याआधी आदल्या दिवशी केलेल्या ऐहोळे आणि पट्टदकलचा वृत्तांत अजून लिहायचा असल्याने आधी ऐहोळे आणि पट्टदकलविषयी लिहून नंतरच महाकूटवर लिहिन.
आता पुढच्या भागात ऐहोळे.
क्रमशः
शिल्पट समजण्यासाठी पौराणीक कथा माहीत असायला हव्यात. एकाच ठिकाणी वेगवेगळे देव आणि वाहनं आहेत.
तो शिलालेख मुख्य गुहांपासून दूर का लिहिला यांचे कारण त्यांच्या कालखंडात
आणि करवणाऱ्या व्यक्तींचे राजकारणातले स्थान वेगळे असणार.
राजा,मंत्री,सेनापती,नगरातील महाजन ,श्रेष्ठी वगैरे.
अनंतशयनाच्या बाजूलाच अगस्ती गुहा आहे ती पाहायला विसरलात. पण इकडे पाट्या
लावलेल्या नाहीत आणि सांगायला,विचारायला कुणी दिसत नाही. तिथे राखलेल्या
बागेसारख्या आवारातून तर्क केला की इथे काही असावे. आणि पुढे गेल्यावर एक
दोनफुटी उंच फाटक खडकाखाली दिसले. त्यास कुलुप नव्हते. मग ते उघडून वाकून
घसरत आत गेल्यावर गुहा सापडली. पंधरा फुटी उंच आहे आणि शिल्पं आहेत. इथे जर
का पर्यटक आणि शालेय सहली आल्या तर झुंबड उडेल. म्हणून मुख्य बदामी गुहा
दाखवणारे गाईड इकडे "काही नाही" सांगतात. हा भाग वर्ज्य आहे. आपण जाऊ शकतो.
सिदलाफडी खरंच आवडलं. जायला हवं.
तो शिलालेख मुख्य गुहांपासून दूर का लिहिला यांचे कारण त्यांच्या कालखंडात आणि करवणाऱ्या व्यक्तींचे राजकारणातले स्थान वेगळे असणार.
बदामीत असंख्य शिलालेख आहेत जिकडे पाहावे तिकडे कन्नड लिपीतले लेख दिसतातच. अगदी किल्ल्याच्या वाटेवरील कातळ भिंतीत देखील बरेच लेख दिसतात. पुलकेशीचा एक शिलालेख तर कड्यात सुमारे १३५ फूट उंचीवर आहे. तो पाहायचा म्हणलं तर रोप क्लाईंब करुन किंवा रॅपलिंगनेच पाहाता येतो.
शिलालेखात अश्या "अर्थाचे" कोरलेले आहे का ?
कप्पे अरभट्ट हा, पब्लिकच्यासाठी मायबापाहून कृपाळु, दयाळु आहे,
परंतु शत्रुच्यासाठी अतिक्रूर आहे ... (हूँ यारों का मैं यार, दुश्मनों का दुश्मन)... (जो नडला त्याला फोडला .. )
ह्या कलियुगात एक माधव (विष्णु) चा अपवाद वगळता, कप्पे अरभट्ट जैसा कोई हार्डइच नै है ...
फोटो नेहमी द्विमितीय असल्याने त्यांमधून मूळच्याआकारमानाची कल्पना येत नाही हे खरेच.
पण सिदलाफडीच्या भव्यतेची कल्पना येण्यासाठी एक छायाचित्र इथे देतो.
रस्ता चुकण्याची शक्यता अधीक दिसते
नाही, रस्ता चुकण्याची शक्यता इथे जवळपास शून्य आहे. टॉवरच्या इथेच वळायचे हे लक्षात ठेवायचे तुम्ही थेट सिदलाफडीपाशीच पोहोचता मग.
कप्पे अरभट्ट लेखाच्या खाली जे वर्तुळाकृती कोरिवकाम आहे ती राजमुद्रा टाईप काही आहे का?
ती राजमुद्रा नाही, चालुक्यांच्या राजमुद्रेत, सूर्य, शंख, चक्र आणि वराह सामावलेले आहेत. कप्पे अरभट्ट लेखात फक्त नक्षीदार चक्र आहे.
अश्मयुगीन मानवाची दफनस्थळे
बदामीच्या सिदलाफडी गुहेची सफर करताना आपण मागे अश्मयुगीन मानवांनी काढलेली चित्रे पाहिलीत, येथे मात्र आहेत ती त्यांची दफनस्थळे. बदामी, ऐहोळे परिसरातील दगडांच्या विशिष्ट रचनांमुळे आणि त्यातील गुहांमुळे अश्मयुगीन मानवांना सुरक्षित आश्रय उपलब्ध होत असे त्यामुळे येथे जागोजागी त्यांच्या वास्तव्याच्या खुणा आढळतात. ऐहोळेत आहेत ती त्यांची दफनस्थळे. ही स्थळे मात्र तटबंदीच्या बाहेरच्या भागातल्या पठारावर असल्याने तेथे उतरुन जाणे सहज शक्य नाही, आम्हालाही पुढे पट्टदकलला जायचे असल्याने येथे उतरणे वेळेअभावी रहित केले, मात्र तटबंदीवरुन ही स्थळे सहजी दृष्टीस पडतात. दोन तीन उभे केलेले सपाट दगड आणि त्यावर ठेवलेला सपाट दगड अशी ह्यांची साधीसुधी रचना.
अश्मयुगीन दफनस्थळे
अश्मयुगीन दफनस्थळे
अश्मयुगीन दफनस्थळे
ही स्थळे पाहूनच आम्ही मेगुती टेकडी उतरायला लागलो. टेकडीवरुन ऐहोळे गावाचे विहंगम दर्शन होते.
ऐहोळे गाव
ऐहोळे गाव व मलप्रभा नदी
टेकडी उतरुन येईस्तोवर जवळपास दीड वाजत आला होता व आता आमचा प्रवास सुरु झाला तो पट्टदकलकडे, त्याविषयी पुढच्या भागात.
क्रमशः
Sidlaphadi Caves
First week December 2011 I had my plan ready. I had checked the route in Google Maps and had a print out. I decided to stay overnight at Badami so that I can start the trek early. Dr.Umesh had introduced his school time friend Ranganath, a resident of Badami. If possible he would join me for the trek to Sidlaphadi. I would be staying at Ranganath's place.
Dec 16, 2011. I left Pattadakal by 6-30 and arrived at Badami by 7-45. Finding Ranganath's place was easy. I freshened up and as we chatted his colleague & friend Dhariappa Dharegonnanavar arrived. We went to KSTDC for dinner, food was good. I would have preferred a khanavali, we would have had better food at lesser cost. Back home it was decided that Dhariappa would accompany me for the trek. Though I was tired and not a single mosquito buzzing into my ears, I did not sleep well.
Dec 17, 2011. Woke up early. After cold bath I was fresh and felt energetic. As soon as Dhariappa was ready we took off. On Badami-Guledgudda road, just after hotel Badami Court is Konamma temple, I parked my car under a tamarind tree within the temple compound. Just across the road is the path to Sidlaphadi. It was 6-30. By the way I was in hawai-chappals :) somehow they seem to work well for me.
The uphill path was rough, scattered with rocks of various sizes. After a minute or so we were an even surface though a rough one. The stones were packed with cement, this looked like a foundation for a proper road ...so this is road project was abandoned for some reason. Tire marks and displaced stones told us that loaded tractors plied this path often. We spoke of agriculture, IT and tourism.
Soon we were looking up at a cell phone tower- that's an important landmark. Dhariappa is facing we should be taking.
Silhouette of a rock overhang. A Wikimapia user had marked this as Sidlaphadi. This spot is just 1.25km from the main road.
Happy
with the progress we trekked on. After the sharp left and sharp right
turns near the tower, the path was more or less straight and level. We
could see evidence of quarrying on these hills. Not long back what were
beautiful rock formations are now broken up and look like sour wounds.
The path we trekked on had a layer of fine red dust- that means regular
vehicular traffic.
Around
7-15 I felt we were close to our destination. The path turned right and
shrubs straight ahead ...it looked as though there no path ahead. The
map confirmed there's no right turn here, so we went straight ahead and
then a left turn and there it is.
I
was ecstatic to be so close to this cave which was home to humans tens
of thousands of years ago. We had to climb down into a shallow, narrow
valley. If not for bird songs and leaves rustling the place would be
totally silent. I was trying to imagine this place ages ago. 
Google Map screen-shot
A - SidlaphadiB - small cave
C - cave with a window
D - cave 10 feet above ground level
At the cave entrance. The cave resembles a single arch bridge. The roof has three holes. Scientific research says these holes are cased by erosion. Local legend says they were caused by a lightning hence the name Sidla-phadi.
Length could be 50 feet and depth could be 30 feet. Height of the roof at its maximum could be 15 feet.
We
spend few minutes in the cave and go out to the other side. It's a
small open field with small trees and thorny bushes. People from
surrounding villages come here to gather firewood. That's the reason the
cave and its surroundings are free of bushes.
We
discover this little cave, marked B in the screen-shot. Dhariappa
called it a single room cave. This little cave has a small inner chamber
which could be used to store food. Another extension to the left can be
also be seen.
The level field ends here and a slope rolls down into a wide valley. Close to this point is another cave.
Cave
with a window, marked C in the screen-shot. This cave reminds me of
Phantom's Skull Cave ...one eyed skull cave. Its quite spacious inside.
Close to this cave I found an interesting plant- entire plant has dried
with flowers on it.
We
go up to explore the cave top. We avoided stepping close to the edges. I
feel long back the cave had much more interior space. Part of the roof
might have collapsed. For instance, if you see the curved edge on the
left, it might have been a straight line.
Holes in the roof.
A
closer look. Notice the dry plant? It's stems are standing even when
its dry. Proud little plant. Besides this plant, there were few other
beauties which caught my eyes. Here's a small post dedicated to the sights at Sidlaphadi.
We discover another cave, marked D in the screen-shot.
This cave is a good 10 feet above ground level.
Other end of the valley. After a good downpour water would flow down in streams here.
Shadow on the left is Dhariappa's.
An
inscription on the southern wall. I scanned the walls with a hope to
see some paintings. No, nothing. Dhariappa pointed out to red colored
shapes but they turned out to be stains of mud-water. An ASI book on
Pattadakal refers to Sidlaphadi- Neolithic pottery, chert (a
semi-precious stone) and microliths were found here. However there's no
reference to pro-historic paintings of any sort.
From
this angle I could cover half the cave. Try to imagine cavemen living
here. Perhaps I should come here with a group of people & cavemen
costumes and enact the scene.
Cave D as seen from ground level. To reach that cave we had to negotiate a steep rock face. I'm not going to try anything this time. The valley floor was sandy at places- that's proof for flowing water.
This unique rock formation reminds me of a portico.
Dhariappa found this unique stone and I kept it as a souvenir :) 
I wanted to be here some more time but Dhariappa had to be in the college by 10. Anyway, I had plans to visit again. Dhariappa ans I shook hand for successfully locating Sidlaphadi.
We walked back the way we came. We saw many such rock formations resembling an inverted ice-cream bowl. This one had a little cave it in, perhaps a fox hole.
Our
breakfast was a pack of six Britannia oat cookies shared equally and
little water. I'm not sure if it was oats that kept us charged. Our trek
back was equally effortless.
Since
we were familiar with the trial we took few short cuts. My feet had a
thick coat of red soil. Luckily at the temple we could wash our feet and
get into the car fairly clean. We went straight to Dhariappa's college
on Badami-Banashankari road. It was 10 O' clock when I stopped near the
diploma building.Another place in Badmai on my wish list was Ranganatha temple. I wanted to finish it off before heading home.
.........
6 comments:
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Teamgsquare said...
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Nice to see this place . Last two times when i visited Badami somehow this place got slipped ..
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Arun said...
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Very interesting place indeed...India has got a lot of surprises..
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siddeshwar said...
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@ Team G Sqaure, Arun Sidlaphadi is one place really close to us where one travels back in time, a time when the world knew no boundaries.
I wish to visit Sidlaphadi again during and explore the surroundings. There would be at least one cave I might have missed.
Last week i had been to Koppal. Rocky hills of Koppal have rock overhangs under which our ancestors might have taken shelter. -
Holalagoudar said...
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Every year I visit Badami and it's really a shame that I never knew about Sidlaphadi.
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Unknown said...
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Truly amazing! I must appreciate your courage and adventures will to find out this cave. I have seen the model of it in ASI museum at BADAMI. Then and there i have felt an attraction to go there. I was in Badami to develop a tourist map. That why if I could add it to the tourist map then it would be interesting for common tourists. So in that will i searched it in google map and found. Next morning I started alone to find that. But after reaching the tower i lost my internet connectivity and became lost of roads. As a result effort gone in vein.
Your description tion is now a motivation to reach there after several years. Thank you. I must reach there this time. -
siddeshwar said...
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@Holalagoudar - hoping you got a chance to visit by now
@ - thank you, it was an awesome experience searching for the spot with a paper map. of course, Dhariappa was great company
Short Report
A Study on Ancient Artifacts Around Badami Hill and Their Correlation with the Natural Rock Arch of Sidlaphadi
Authors: Pradipta Banerjee & Mayur Bajaj
Year: 2021, Volume: 12, Page/Article: 1, DOI: https://doi.org/10.5334/aa.215
Abstract
The Badami hill of Bagalkot district, Karnataka, India, houses a large rock arch termed “Sidlaphadi” that was used as a shelter by primitive man. The hill was searched to find any prehistoric artifact that would act as a directional marker towards the arch. An interesting structure was noted in one of the natural caves near the southwestern part of the hill at 15°55’06”N latitude and 75°41’02”E longitude. A miniature replica of the arch was carved onto the floor of the cave. The axis of the miniature bridge made an angle of 28.5 ± 1.5° with the 75°41’02”E longitude. The axis, upon extension eastwards at the defining angle reaches the northern slope of Sidlaphadi. The authors also located a megalithic stone arrangement in the northern part of the hill that had a pointed capstone and was thought to be oriented towards the rock arch. The stone arrangement was in the same latitude as that of the Sidlaphadi site, but the capstone was oriented 22°E towards the winter solstice sunrise at 112.5° azimuth.
Badami-Sidlaphadi-Mahakoota
Sidlaphadi is a cave, that housed the prehistoric man. It is near Badami.
I heard about this just before my visit to Badami. So i decided to have a look at this place. First day I saw Badami Caves, Temples and Fort. At cave area there were so many guides. I hired a guide for tomorrow to reach Mahakoota Temple from Badami via Sidlaphadi.
In the morning after breakfast, we moved on Bagalkot road to reach Hotel Badami Court, a little far from the town towards Railway Station. Just after the the Hotel there is a track going up towards the hill. We took that trail and walked toward a Mobile Phone Tower which was seen on a hill. Now a days Karnataka Tourism Corporation people nailed a sign board beside the road showing the way to Sidlaphadi. A power transmission line is going along with the route, up to a Mobile Phone Tower. Road was pebbled and gravel one. Crossed Mobile Phone Tower and walked further to reach Sidlaphadi. On our way there were some curious rock formations looked like igloos.There was a descend at the end of the road into a U shaped gorge between two hills. Here we saw a unique rock-formation during the descent. It was an hour walk from the main road.
The cave looked like a big arch, placed on two rocks on both sides,with holes on its top. Locals say they were caused by lightning. So it was called Sidla-Phadi. Thorny bushes were present on the ground here and there.This place was the home to the humans Millions of years ago. Spent some time here to inspect the cave. There were some more caves in its vicinity.
Archaeological Survey Of India conducted research here. They found some Neolithic Pottery and microliths. A replica of Sidlaphadi is seen in ASI Badami Museum.
An hour of walk took us to Mahakoota Temple. We reached the Temple by a steep descent from top of the hill.
Mahakooteswara is the principle deity in this Temple, an abode of Lord Shiva. This Temple was built by Chalukya Dynasty in 6th century AD. The main Temple is highly decorated mainly with Shivapurana stories. Here there are two tanks.One is inside the Temple and another one is outside. Both the tanks are fed by perennial streams. Water oozing is not visible in both the tanks. But you can notice water going out of the inside tank into a canal through a surplus weir. Pilgrims usually take bath first in the outside tank and later inside and go to darshan. The Temple has nicely kept old charm. There are so many sub shrines within the Temple premises. Some Sub Shrines are constructed in Nagara style. They believed to be constructed on later date. Some of the Sculptures are awesome. Ardhnariswara image on one of the Temples beside the inner tank was fabulous. Ficus trees are every where to give good shade. Every one will be in a state of fulfillment by the charm and grace of this Temple.
I recently visited Mahakoota (13-01-2013). A renovation work is going on inside the Temple premises. Authorities removed some sub shrines to reconstruct.
Photos
Siddanakolla ~ Siddhankal
November 6, 2011
Driving from Kelur. On the road connecting Kelur and Aihole, we saw a
small hand painted board to the left pointing the direction to Sri
Kshetra Siddeshwara Kolla. We took the narrow road winding through the
hilly terrain initially and then leveled out as we reached the plateau.
Suddenly the road tar-road gave way to dirt road. We kept on driving...
folks loading farm produce into a mini truck, agricultural plots here
and there ...basically the place had a peaceful ambiance. After a 5
minute drive, the dirt road ended and we were driving on a flag-stone
road. This road went down-hill, just like a ghat section road with
couple of hairpin turns. Soon we were in a village, folks busy with
their monsoon harvest. We asked a passerby for Siddanakolla. This is it.
I asked for the temple. He told me to go back the way we came and look
out on the left side on the dirt road. Aagh!
Back we go, up the ghat section and soon we found the place. Like I felt earlier, its absolutely peaceful here. I should come back sometime and spend a night to gaze at the dark sky twinkling with stars. It's a long time since I saw the real night sky.
Siddanakolla is a religious place with historic and prehistoric importance. It has references in a World Heritage Series booklet on Pattadakal published by Archeological Survey of India. Quoting the line from the booklet- in Siddanakolla and Aihole are the Upper Palaeolithic and Megalithic cave paintings and other cultural relics (circa 15000 to 300 BCE).
Siddanakolla is a group of ancient temples built at the starting point of a valley in a rock hill. The other Kollas I've visited are Varavi Siddeshwara Kolla near Munvalli, Shabari Kolla near Sureban, Huligyemmana Kolla near Pattadkal.
Namah Shivaya.
Siddeshwara Gudi, main temple here. This is the first west facing Shiva temple I'm seeing.
Basavanna in a mantapa. The man here is one of the two care-takers I met.
Collection of ancient sculptures next to the temple.
Place for pilgrims to relax. There's a small room like enclosure in the rocks. I guess we were the only four people here at the moment.
To the left is a rock formation from which fresh water flows out. During rainy season, streams flowing down would create a waterfall.
A Shivalinga to the left. Two rectangular pockets have been hewn out for water to collect. The water is clear and cool. Poojaris and Pilgrims take bath here and perform Shiva-pooja.
The ways of nature is amazing. See how Mother Earth stores water deep inside and lets out little by little.
A cave temple entrance.
Inside of the temple, a Shivalinga and holy relic depicting a pair of feet.
I cannot recall the name of this temple. It's an ancient Chalikyan style temple.
Hope I'm not wrong by calling these Dwarapalas. Probably this is the first time I'm seeing goats depicted in temple.
Temple dedicated to Devi.
Deviye Namaha.
Samadhi Mandir of the ascetic who attained Samadhi here.
The care-takers invited me into the kitchen to show Swamiji's photo. I'me not sure which of these two holy men was the Ajja who lived here.
The care-takers just before I left Siddanakolla.
It was around 5-15PM when we left for Aihole. Back home I realized I completely forgot about Haalsiddeshwara fort which is less then a kilometer to the south of Siddanakolla. I had found it in Wikimapia, it was referred to as 'fort near Mangalagud'. If I had visited it, it would have been the sixth fort of the day :(
.........11 comments:
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Arun said...
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Very interesting place indeed..
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zihva said...
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I think in Srikalahasti also, Shiva faces the West. I hope you can the similar pictures for Srikalahasti.. all I see is fences for people these days..
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siddeshwar said...
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@Arun if rainfall is good, August to October will be a good time to visit Siddanakolla.
@zihva I never realized Srikalahasti temple is west facing. I agree many popular temples are full of fences, barricades and boards :( -
Teamgsquare said...
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Naigamesha , is one with body of man and head of Ram .http://puratattva.in/2011/09/11/tala-the-riddle-of-an-icon-1080.html . Thanks for sharing this place .
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siddeshwar said...
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@ Team G Square thank you for the input (Naigamesha) and also for introducing puratattva.in
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Nikhil said...
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Wonderful! Finally this place is confirmed. Your pictures are splendid. I saw just one picture in google earth of the palce, and since then wondered where it would be (google earth seemed to show it incorrectly). With your confirmation I will not miss this next time I visit Badami. Alas, I missed it last time. Thanks!
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siddeshwar said...
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@ architect Nikhil Thank you. Try to be there by 4PM, you'll probably get to see sun rays falling directly on Shivalinga in the west-facing temple.
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Unknown said...
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The ascetic pf that place was the person with both white hair and beard..His name was Siddappajja..He is my Great Grandmother's Father!.
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Anonymous said...
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its probly Vedic god temple. West facing is very few, saw one with hoyssala architecture. One dont get to see much of Vedic gods due to destruction by shivites.
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Anonymous said...
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Details about the dwarapalas.
https://twitter.com/blog_supplement/status/1234714478891163648?t=hW8aVIVo5n1AhfR0jL_VoQ&s=19 -
siddeshwar said...
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Unknown, Anonymous and Anonymous: thank you for your valuable comments. You should've left your names in the messages.
ऐहोळे गावापासून बदामीकडं जाताना एक छोटेसं गाव लागतं, सिद्धनकोल्ला. त्या गावातून एक रस्ता डोंगराकडं, दक्षिणेस जातो. त्या रस्त्यानं पुढं गेल्यास दोनेक किलोमीटर अंतरावर आपल्याला मुख्य मंदिराचा परिसर नजरेस पडतो. एका छोट्याशा झऱ्याच्या काठावर चार-पाच मंदिरांचा समूह आणि झऱ्याला चिकटून एक छोटी कपार आपलं लक्ष वेधून घेते. कोल्ला म्हणजे दरी. हे ठिकाण दरीच्या तोंडावर निर्माण करण्यात आलं आहे.
इथलं मुख्य मंदिर, सिद्धेश्वर मंदिर आज मोडकळीस आलेल्या अवस्थेत आहे. मुख्य मंडप आणि सभामंडप पूर्णपणे कोसळला आहे. झऱ्याच्या बाजूला असलेल्या कपारीत एक शिवलिंग, खूप सारे दगड एकावर एक रचून ठेवलेले दिसतात. जवळ जाऊन पाहिल्यास या दगडांमध्ये आपल्याला लज्जागौरीचे शिल्प कातळात खोदलेले दिसते. जे दांपत्य निपुत्रिक आहेत, त्यांनी मूल होण्यासाठी किंवा आपल्या मनातील इच्छा पूर्ण करण्यासाठी अशाप्रकारे दगडावर दगड रचून छोटे मिनार उभे करण्याची पद्धत इथं रुजली आहे.
हे लज्जागौरीचे शिल्प विशेष आहे आणि दख्खन भागात चालुक्यांनी मोठ्या प्रमाणात लज्जागौरीची उपासना सुरू केली होती, त्याचे प्रतीकही आहे. बाजूलाच छोट्या-छोट्या मंदिरांत आपल्याला अनेक विशेष प्रतिमा दिसतात, ज्यामध्ये सप्तमातृका आहेत, सूर्य आहे. सप्तमातृकांच्या मंदिराचे द्वारपाल म्हणून नैगमेश आणि छगवक्र यांना नियुक्त केले आहे.
कार्तिकेयाचे हे दोन सेनापती, बालाग्रही म्हणजेच लहान मुलांना त्रास देणारे ते नंतर लहान मुलांचे रक्षण करणारे, मातृत्वाच्या देवतांचे द्वारपाल म्हणून झालेला त्यांच्या संकल्पनेचे स्थित्यंतर आपल्याला यातून पाहायला मिळते. पट्टडकलपासून जवळ असणारे हुळी गेम्मनकोल्ला हेही ठिकाण तितकेच महत्त्वाचे आहे.
एका धबधब्याचा कपारीमध्ये बारा शिव मंदिरांची उभारणी करण्यात आली आहे. यातील एका छोट्या मंदिरावर एक शिलालेख अभ्यासकांना आढळून आला, जो चालुक्य राजा ‘विक्रमादित्य दुसरा’ याच्या कालखंडातील होता. सर्वसाधारण लोकांचा समज आहे, की बारा ज्योतिर्लिंगाचे प्रतिरूप म्हणून इथे बारा शिवलिंगाची स्थापना केली आहे.
पण, अभ्यासकांच्या मते, हे ज्योतिर्लिंगाचे प्रतिरूप नसून चालुक्य राजाची स्मृतिमंदिरे आहेत, चालुक्यांची स्मशानभूमी आहे. हे अतिशय महत्त्वाचे ठिकाण आज केवळ त्या धबधब्यामुळे प्रसिद्ध आहे. त्या ठिकाणाला अतिशय कमी पर्यटक भेट देतात आणि जे इथे येतात त्यांना माहीतही नसतं, की चालुक्यांच्या इतिहासाशी निगडित एक महत्त्वाचा दुवा या ठिकाणी निर्माण करण्यात आला आहे.
Haalsiddeshwara Fort, Siddanakolla
Dec 16, 2011
I missed these ruins during my previous first visit to Siddanakolla.
Today, my second visit, I leave my car near the temple and get
directions from a farm owner on the way to his fields. Laxman is his
name. I had to walk through a field, then clamber across a stone wall
and pick my way through a quarry to reach the base of the hillock on
which the fort was. The slope ahead is riddled with thorny shrubs of all
sizes and somehow they seemed to grow where climbing was easiest. After
scanning the slope I located this series of stones which some what
resembled a flight of steps. I decided to go up this way.
Almost five minutes and couple of scratches on my arms I stand here looking at the ruins of Halsiddeshwar fort. The collapsed walls and the small pillar on the bastion reminds me of Gudur fort.
Other side of the bastion.
Siddanakolla temple about 600m away.
The fort is located on the northern edge of this plateau. Condition of this bastion and rampart walls are slightly better.
Of four bastions, three have collapsed. I managed to climb up a heap of stones, even standing here to shoot this picture was an effort.
A maze of stone walls divide the space inside into small rooms. I'm surprised that these thin walls have been standing for God knows how many centuries. All walls in this fort are carefully arranged stones, no binding material to hold them together.
Engineering seems primitive but how old is this structure?
A cactus fills up one of the smaller rooms.
Even with rough cut stones the engineers have managed to create a straight faced wall.
Even the corners are perfect right angle.
This isn't a boundary wall around an open well. I looked inside trying to get some clue what this could be. Was this used to store grains?
Close by was this stone which was a part of a larger stone with a dead conical hole.
I wonder if this fort was abandoned before completion. Stones heaped on the either sides of the walls are waste to be moved later?
This is the fort's entrance.
Walls on either sides of the entrance seem to have collapsed.
This trial of stones makes me lean towards construction abandoned theory. This fort is a puzzle now.
On the way back, I stopped to check out this rock face in the quarry I has passed through earlier. Nature shows off its talent.
Beautiful isn't it.
I met Laxman again. In fact he was the one who told me the name of the fort. Other wise I had known it as fort near Mangalagud. Laxman said there's another fort on this hill ...six kilometers walk. I guessed he was referring to Chikanal fort. After exchanging byes I head towards Aihole, about 6 kilometers from here.
.........2 comments:
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Teamgsquare said...
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Wow , wonderful to know about this fort . Nature is the best Artist ..
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injamaven said...
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That striated stone is found near the Jaina cave at Aihole also, as you probably know. I'm absolutely fascinated by these little known early Calukya sites! Thanks so much for posting
This temple could be ancient burial site
Updated on:
BAGALKOT: Inscriptions found on an ancient temple at Huligemmana Kolla near Pattadakalu indicate that the place may have once been the royal burial site of the Chalukya dynasty. According to the Department of Information and Public Relations assistant director Manjunath Sullolli, who is also an archaeology expert, the inscriptions may have been scripted during the rule of the Chalukyas at Huligemmana Kolla, 7km from Pattadakal.
“There
are eleven temples with lingas and a tower developed during the
Chalukya dynasty and another linga without the tower, which has an
inscription on it stating that it served as the funerary casket-bearing
shrine of Vikramaditya-II. This inscription claims the spot served as a
royal burial site,” Manjunath said.
“There is a misconception that
they portray 12 jyotirlingas (a devotional representation of Lord
Shiva). But in reality, these are the royal graves where the lingas are
usually placed on top of a cremation site, a common practice in the
Hindu tradition. Excavation at the Chalukyas burial site should be done.
This will serve as scientific proof in the future,” Manjunath said.
“After excavation, if we find skeletons with the help of carbon dating, we can easily identify which era it belonged to. A research has claimed that Pulkeshi-II stayed at Huligemmana Kolla,” he added.
Naganatha Kolla
April 3, 2011
One of the restored temples in Badami region which most tourists do not
notice or do not bother to visit. The temple is off
Banashankari-Shivayogi Mandir road, its one kilometer inside a shallow
valley in between ridges. The location is little secluded, that made me
wonder; why such a location?
The approach road was under repairs, we (Praveen and Suresh mama was my company) had to park our cab pretty close to the main road and walk.
We were the only people here. First thoughts on seeing the temple: Looks quite simple and plain. Why did we bother to walk one kilometer on pebble scattered dirt path under the blazing Sun. Anyway, we are here, let's check it out.
A small board describes the temple..
Basavanna caught my attention. A good piece of work.
The interior is a contrast of the exterior. Columns and ceiling are packed with art. I just snapped a couple of images. Nagadeva just above Basavanna.
Lord Shiva & Parvati riding Nandi.
Lord Brahma on Lotus.
No idea who these characters are riding a ram ...it looks more like four men have floored the animal. The ram's horn stands out in the image.
Cannot identify these characters riding a leaping horse. Saddles were used back then.
The temple floor was littered with bat droppings and air was not very healthy. I decided to go out and check the exterior. Walls are plain but windows are decorated.
One round around the temple and back at the front, the figures on the columns caught my attention. Something different...
Couples in intimate positions.
Of six such couples, I found this most beautiful. The posture depicts love and closeness between them.
A closer look. Check out the curves, they look so natural. This is the most sexiest piece of stone-art I've ever seen. I was totally captivated by this image, spent a good ten minutes appreciating it.
Yes, the one kilometer walk on pebble scattered dirt path under the blazing Sun was worth the trouble. And the answer to the question why such a location: who ever got his temple made, wanted to keep it a secret ...not for everyone's eyes- that's my thought.
I'll make it a point to visit Naganatha temple again and spend time inside. I'm sure I missed lot of interesting art... we had to leave since the main topic for the day was Aihole.
The only video I shot here.
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