Tuesday, January 13, 2026

Umberkhind Trek

 https://chawlaaashish.blogspot.com/2014/08/umberkhind-trek.html


"16 kms Sahaydri trek and you see no fort, 
Chhodna Yaar koi dusra trek karte hai " 

Now that was the reaction that I got from my friend when I suggested that we go on a trek to Umberkhind. Honestly speaking if you are planning to trek to Umberkhind, Think again ! because to do this trek you must be in love with history.Passing through this route you should be able to feel the event that has happened centuries ago, If you are able to do this, believe me it is one of the finest trek that you may gone to.

Before I take you along with my journey. It's very important for you to know as to what is the background of this trek, what is the history connected with it. Out of the various battles fought by Shivaji most people remember the battle of Pawankhind perhaps because a very brave and courageous commander Baji Prabhu Deshpande lost his life or Battle of Sinhagad which Marathas won but with the loss of Tanaji Malusare, However in the same breath let me tell you that the Battle of Umberkhind was equally important in terms of the wealth that was added to Maratha Treasury and the manner in which it was fought and won.It was one of those battles which Shivaji himself lead and won.

History:
It was the year 1659 when Shivaji killed Afzal Khan in Battle of Pratapgad and soon after that he appeared near Panhala Fort and defeated Rustam Zaman, alarmed by this rapid victories of Shivaji, Adilshah requested Mughals to send forces against Shivaji. Aurangzeb was the Emperor at that time , he sent his maternal uncle Shaistha Khan with a large force  to crush Shivaji.Shaistha Khan deputed the job of crushing Shivaji to Uzbek commander Kartalab Khan who along with 30000 strong army marched from Pune.This time around the Mughals decided not to march openly because they wanted to surprise Shivaji instead Shivaji took them by surprise at the pass known as Umberkhind and attacked them from all sides.This battle too involved trickery and surprise especially the way Shivaji enticed Kartalab Khan to take Umberkhind Route by sending a false news that Shivaji is camping at Kurvande Village due to which he changed his plan and proceeded to this village thus walking into the trap setup for him.In this battle Shivaji was at the forefront with the cavalry and within 4 hours defeated the might troops of Kartalab Khan who accepted defeat and surrendered all their arms and baggage to secure safe passage. A lady commander Raibagan who fought from the Mughal side was released with honour , true to Shivaji 's policy towards women. 
 Detailed History link of Battle of Umberkhind


Our Trek :
we all reached Lonawala station  by 8.00 am and from their the transportation to Kurvande village was arranged. It was a 15-20 minutes journey to the Village. One has to just enter on the right of the main road into the village and the next sight is of this long INS Shivaji fencing you see.
Fencing of INS Shivaji as seen at the start Point of the Trek

there is a well marked trail for going up, on your left is the fencing and on your right you will see a big bunglow and few metres ahead one can see the GAIL gas pipeline, you must just keep climbing straight.It's more of a bullock cart road.

First Look at the approaching Nagphani Hill
 As you are walking on this road you will be able to see Nagphani Hill on your front right side.Little more walking and you come across this kind of pass.
                               Walk through the pass
As you cross this pass you will notice Dukes Nose/ Nagphani on your right side, you must turn towards your left side as the route to right side goes toward the Nagphani Top or Dukes Nose. 
Just when you take left you can see the fencing at far end
After turning toward left and with the fencing on your left side too, Keep walking straight on this lush green path,provided you are doing this trek in the monsoon. "Warna Greenery ki pakka koi guarantee nahi "

Lush green paths to walk on
Walking on this lush green carpet don't forget to turn around and have a look at beautiful Nagphani Hill. "Chal bhai ek baar peeche mud ja" 


"Chal bhai ek baar peeche mud ja"
Nagphani Hill or Dukes Nose
The route from here onwards is basically trail walk kind of journey, Do stop here for few minutes to enjoy the beauty of nature, gaze at the lovely valley below


Lovely Valley as seen from the  Top


and you can always have a closer look of Nagphani hill.The tall overshadowing hill.

Have a closer look of Nagphani hill

 In monsoon this trek offers fantastic view of the Sahyadri beauty, mesmerising you with green splash of colours and not for a moment you feel tired or bored.

Oh! How mesmerized I am by this beauty of nature 
Till now the whole trek is kind of trail walk.We were explained that the route that we had just walked on was lot broader in olden days than what it is in today's time. The reason could be that in those days it was a regular route unlike now when only the villagers or trekkers like us venture on these paths.
Walking on the footsteps of Shivaji
In the past the Mughal army was marching on this route with their horses and elephants,carrying guns and cannons followed quietly by Shivaji and his small party of warriors.I could feel the excitement by just thinking and visualizing how this path was a warpath once and I am fortunate to be walking on the footsteps of Shivaji.After walking for some period we come across water stream.

Despite being monsoon there was no sign of clouds or rains.The sun was hitting us hard, so the sight of stream even though small was refreshing.
Refreshing water stream enroute
It's very interesting to note that though we are trekking this route in monsoon and feeling so thirst and tired , I was wondering about the plight of the Maratha soldiers who did this route during the month of February. One has to empathize with the plight of soldiers in hot and humid climate when the streams are also dry. I can only utter "Bravo" Taking the benefit of the  opportunity to have lovely stream flowing near us we all refreshed ourselves.




 and filled up our water bottles from this stream.I also took out some time for posing.

Posing Time
Finally the Organiser got fed up and told everyone to move fast from here and on wards starts our journey once more. Leaving this stream and walking for few minutes we come across small dwellings. I used the word dwelling because there were only 2 or 3 houses to be seen.
First Sign of Village Life
One has to go toward these  houses and move through their courtyard and cross over to the other side and take a left from here.

Walk through this , and take left 
As you can see in the picture above we took left from behind ,a little walk ahead then turn right.This right is almost immediate.

With such overgrown bushes chances of losing the way is possible but one can always take the help of the villager to lead you to the plain ground ahead. Please note in the picture above that my friend is turning towards the right side. The stone wall ahead can be set as marker for diversion.Moving from here we reach a spot from where the trail leads to open space. we all rested here for a small snacks break.
We all rested for a small snacks 

After resting for 5 minutes we all moved , descending a little down on a gentle slope towards an open ground at lower level

Descending down the gentle slope
Once we reached the open ground , Kiran our historian for the day explained to us one very interesting thing. that standing on this plain ground one cannot see the people behind though the site behind is on elevation however those standing above can see the people below.

Large plain ground

So Shivaji and his troops took advantage of this situation, as one battalion which was following the Mughal troop till here  hid behind the tree .Keeping complete vigil over the activities of the Mughal soldiers below and never for once the Mughal troop realised that they are been followed and in the meanwhile the other battalion had spread wide and far in the jungles below. 

One battlaion of Shivaji was hidden in these jungles

and one more battalion was waiting at the Umberkhind all set to ambush the Mughal soldiers. One very note worthy thing I want to mention here is that from this plain ground on wards the troops has to leave there chariots,horses,elephants here and had to descend on foot down through the jungle route where only a single person can go through at a time. Honestly I could feel the thrill of entrapment.
Descending from here to the jungles
Its is very easy to  lose the way from here  because there is no prominent shepherd trail. Best way to follow the trail is to remember that the side from where you descended on this plain ground, Now you must look out on your right side for the trail descending down.As you prepare for downward descend you will be facing the Dukes nose as can be seen in the above picture.The descent from this point is steep,through the thick jungle. Once the descent gets over, you are again a trail walking along with green grass  and lovely small water-bodies.

Green grass and small water bodies


Marching troops of Shivaji


and this trail walks leads you through some beautiful green woods
Amazing green woods

and some more green carpet
Beauty at its best
As I said for this trek if you can instill the spirit of history in your veins coupled with the beauty of the place it becomes one of the finest trek.Ek hindi film me itne twist nahi jitne is trek me hai. Kabhi pahad,kabhi jungle toh ab nadi, Yes finally we come to Amba river.One look at the river and I went bonkers with my camera clicking crazily. Please enjoy my excitement the pictures given below












we have to cross this river and go across. One has to be very careful because at times the flow of this river is very furious. In fact our trek was postponed by few days as the village people had warned us to avoid coming during excessive rains.All our us crossed this river very cautiously.

We crossed the river very cautiously 
Once we crossed the river , we again took the opportunity to have fun in water and fill up our water bottles. Ab river hai to photo session toh banta hai boss.



Once the river is crossed, we again see the bullock cart road, this road can be very easily be seen after we cross the river.
Bullock Cart road as seen after crossing Amba River
 we all started to walk on this road. The beautiful Amba river flowing along us on the left was indeed a lovely sight.
Amba River flowing along the road
 We walked along this Amba river for another 15- 20 minutes till we reach Chavni Village and this time its indeed a village. Once you enter the village you will understand that it has proper connectivity by the way of Tar road,one can see tempo and car in village.However this is what we are talking of modern day, but during old days all the Moghul soldiers were covering this distance on foot marching toward the Umberkhind to nab Shivaji as their Spies have told them that he is camping there.We walk through this village turning to left and after some time come across the bridge, we cross over this bridge with Amba river flowing beneath it

Resting on the Bridge over the Amba river

Majestic sight of  Amba river flowing with another bridge at far end.
I can very well understand the ordeal of Moghul soldiers who had to cover the distance till the Umberkhind  in the month of February and here we were walking the road in monsoon and yet soaked to death by the August heat.I was almost grumbling at this point because of the overbearing heat but then I reminded myself as to the purpose of this trek,which was not only trekking but to walk on the footsteps of Shivaji, in another words its was a reminiscent of journey of Shivaji.

Slumped due to heat but the smile is intact
  The walk from the Chavni village to Umberkhind is long and arduous, walking on tar road can be very boring and tiring one has to keep himself very motivated to walk this long distance.My motivation was very clear because I was walking with the history. I was walking with Shivaji. I was motivated to be one of the soldier who will trap Kartalab Khan and his army, braving the heat we finally reached Umberkhind. The Khind is not very prominent because of the road passing today, but I can visualise how in a narrow pass the Kartalab's soldiers must have got trapped like mouse and how the Shivaji's mere 2000 soldiers overpowered 30000 Mughal soldiers into submission.
Board on the road at Umberkhind 
Today at this point where the battle of Umberkhind was fought we have this board which narrates the entire battle.While coming from the chavni village this board is on our left side. We take a U turn from this board towards the Amba river to visit the memorial or Vijay Stamb constructed by the initiative of Shiv durg mitra  trekking group and the entire Chavni village.
Vijay Stamb or Victory Memorial on Amba River


 The memorial stands majestically across the river, we have to walk across the Amba river once more to pay our tribute to the heroes of Battle of Umberkhind.
One has to cross the river to reach this memorial
The Memorial is indeed a work of art ,the front side has the picture of Shivaji,



On one side the history is mentioned.


Another side has Aagaya  Patra embbed in the stone


 And the fourth side has the details of the people who initiated and inaugurated the Vijay stamb or the Memorial.


For us the most important part was now, because this was the time to offer our prayers to all the brave heroes who fought the war bravely and intelligently.

Paying our respect to the brave warriors
 After paying our respect it was time to chill out in the Amba river, with 4 kms more to go we needed all the freshness and rejuvenation so without any further thought we jumped into the river, feeling the chilled amba river water.
Time to chill out
With full on fun in the waters we were all set to finish the rest of the 4kms of the long 16km trek. The route was again on the same tar road and it was 5 pm when we reached the Shemadi village. The end point of this trek which takes you to Pali khapoli road. As our Tumtum had not arrived so crashed out on the road itself due to tiredness ,we all squatted on the road waiting for vehicle to come.
Atlast the trek is over,resting on Pali-khapoli Road


My only regret through out the trek was the extreme heat that we have to encounter on this 16kms trek despite our trek being in monsoon season, finally we boarded the vehicle and perhaps to tease us the heavens poured so hard that amid thunderbolts and heavy rains we reached Khapoli station.

Special thanks to  our trek organiser Kiran Shelar for bringing the history alive for me.

Travel tips:
1.Trek starts from lonawala
2. Lonawala to Kurvande village arrange transport.
3. Kurvande village start point.
4.Chavni village next point
5. Detour from Umberkhind board for the Vijay stamb or Memorial.
6.Final 4kms walks till the shemadi Village, on pali -Khapoli road.
7. Tum tum ply from Pali to khapoli, but preferably arrange for advance transport .

Grade: Easy/Endurance.
 
 

Umberkhind

Author

Trail stats

Distance
9.08 mi
Elevation gain
784 ft
Technical difficulty
Moderate
Elevation loss
2,336 ft
Max elevation
2,507 ft
TrailRank 
28 4
Min elevation
378 ft
Trail type
One Way
Moving time
3 hours 14 minutes
Time
7 hours 33 minutes
Coordinates
2634
Uploaded
February 2, 2020
Recorded
February 2020
2,507 ft
378 ft
9.08 mi

near Khandāla, Mahārāshtra (India)

Viewed 559 times, downloaded 18 times

Trail photos

Photo ofUmberkhind Photo ofUmberkhind Photo ofUmberkhind

Itinerary description

Trek from kurwande ghat

Waypoints

Photo Altitude 1,845 ft
Photo ofValley enroute

Valley enroute

Photo Altitude 1,808 ft
Photo ofWater point

Water point

Photo Altitude 1,857 ft
Photo ofShelter enroute

Shelter enroute

Photo Altitude 1,600 ft
Photo ofHome enroute

Home enroute

Photo Altitude 549 ft
Photo ofChavani school

Chavani school

Photo Altitude 547 ft
Photo ofPhoto

Photo

Photo Altitude 487 ft
Photo ofRanjan khalgi

Ranjan khalgi

Photo Altitude 417 ft
Photo ofUmberkhind

Umberkhind

Photo Altitude 408 ft
Photo ofSmarak

Smarak

Comments  (2)

 https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/umberkhind-46182193
 
 
tripoto.com

Trek to Mrugagad and Umberkhind

Nikhil

Mumbai

If you staying in Pune and it's rainy season then your mind will take you to beautiful Mountains & Waterfalls
But in Rainy season places like Lonavala, Khandala, Mulshi and Tamhini Ghat are heavily crowded on weekends, then you will like to opt out a less known place.
After thinking a lot I started reading the list of Forts which I haven't explored, during that time I came across a Fort called Mrugagad.
Name sounds different and it took my attention.
I saw its pics on Google, I liked it and came to know it's rarely known, less people visit it, so I decided to explore on coming weekend.

Details From Pune given below

Name - Mrugagad
Difficulty Level - Easy
Time required - Max 2 hrs
Base Village - Bheliv
Distance from Pune - 120km
Best time to visit - Rainy season

I read about this place on Tuesday, packed my bag on Wednesday itself and was very eager for upcoming weekend as it was going to be very beautiful.

Things to Carry

* Waterproof Bag
* Min 2 Water bottles
* Snacks like Wafers, Farsan, Chips
* Energy drinks like Glucose
* Fruits
* Extra pair of Clothes
* Shoes
* First aid kit
* Mobile, Camera on Personal risk
* Plastic bag to cover your mobile and camera

Started my journey early morning, it was drizzling and I was lucky it wasn't raining harsh, start of the day I felt day is lucky n gonna be great.
On the way only I had breakfast and before reaching the base Village I came across a name plate Umberkhind.
As I know history a bit, I remembered, There was battle in Umberkhind and it was fought between Shivaji Maharaj and Kartalab Khan.
As it was on my way I decided to do it and Pay my tribute to Brave Marathas

Finally reached the base Village Bheliv, parked my car in started taking info about the route.
The villagers told, the route is easy, I just need to follow the markings which were made by trekkers, it sounded good and easy
I decided to follow the instructions and started following the markings, the markings took me through dense forest, the forest was very dense and very beautiful and after 20 mins I came to a place where I need to start ascending the fort.
The ascending was easy and there was one rock patch and way was narrow and was between the 2 rocks, anyway I had the experience of trekking so it wasn't a big challenge so I passed easily.
As I was ascending, rising above the ground I started seeing the forest from top and beautiful mountain range with waterfalls.
After some time I completed the first part of Ascending, there I saw a way, the way was towards cave, reaching the cave was very challenging and Thrilling, should be done only by Experienced Trekkers.
After that there was a beautiful rocky stare case which starts the beginning of 2nd Phase of Ascending.
Within no time I got on top of fort, the fort was small and nothing to explore, but it's one of the most Beautiful Photogenic place, so I spent most of my time in clicking.
I had my lunch as carried it. I took rest for some time and started descending.
Descended in half hr, reached the car and took rest for 20 mins and started my Journey towards Umberkhind

Umberkhind
Umberkhind is the place where battle was fought between Shivaji Maharaj and Kartalab Khan.
This battle was in dense forest where just 1000 Marathas defeated 20000 Mughals.
For more details please read it in Google, after reading you will definitely feel proud to be part of Maharashtra.
Umberkhind has only the Monument of Victory over Mughals and as it was raining season there was a Water stream.
I checked the depth of water it was not over the knee so I played and enjoyed in water stream.
At the end of the day I payed my tribute to the Brave Marathas and moved towards my home.

The place is small and one of the most beautiful and should be in list of every trek lover.

Keep Travelling, Keep Trekking and Keep Enjoying.

I would like to end with below Words...

“Live with no excuses and travel with no regrets”

“Don't listen to what they say, go see”

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Mrugagad

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Waterfalls seen in surrounding

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Ascending through 2 rocks

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Beautiful steps

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Beautiful waterfall all around

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Beautiful Mountains

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Umberkhind

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

Photo of Mumbai by Nikhil

 
 The cost of the trek is Rs. 950/- only. 


​
The cost includes - 
  • Travel from Mumbai - Umbarkhind- Mumbai in private non AC vehicle
  • Breakfast, Morning Tea and Evening tea
  • Guide and Expertise Charges

The cost does not include - 

  • Bottled Drinking water / Cold Drinks
  • Any personal orders/expenses
  • Any personal or travel insurance
  • Anything which is not mentioned in cost includes
 Here is a list of things to be carried for the trek -


  • Haversack to put in everything to be carried for the trek. No sling bags
  • Water 3 Liters at least (Compulsory)
  • Lunch for the day (Compulsory)
  • Windcheater / Poncho
  • Extra clothes and Towel / Napkin
  • Camera and something to munch on (Optional)
  • Personal medicines required if any
  • Plastic bags to wrap your stuffs
  • Wear proper footwear. Avoid Chappal, Sandal etc.
  • Identity Proof
 
Few rules that we would like people to follow - 

  • Consumption of alcohol, smoking, drugs, narcotics is strictly not allowed and would lead to expulsion from the trek.
  • Leader's decision will be final and binding to all members. No arguments will be entertained.
  • Each member is responsible for their own safety and baggage.
  • Please do not wear any jewellery or gold ornaments.
  • Please do not litter. Do not throw plastic, paper, wrappers, bottles etc. Carry them home to throw in the dustbin.
  • We strongly believe in saying - Wherever we go, leave only footprints and take back only memories.
 
It is advisable to wear full sleeve clothes and comfortable trekking shoes.

Hiking / Trekking / Rock climbing is an adventurous activity and accidents can happen in spite of taking utmost caution and care. The organization will not be responsible for any injury / accident / death to the participant while on trek.
 
 

Battle of Umberkhind

Around 4 km from Khemabari village in the Khalapur taluk of Raigad district, on the Khapoli-Poli road, is located a small tri junction at Chavani. The Amba river here originates from the foot of a small cone, near to Kurnawade village in the Maval Taluka. The river passes by Umarkhandi along the Garmal valley, and merging with the Nagothane creek, before it merges into the sea.

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Umberkhind is one of the many ghats in the Nain-Maval area, located right below Kurnawade Ghat. During the first Anglo Maratha War in 1781, the Peshwa chieftain Haripant Phadke, guarded this area to prevent the British from approaching Ghatmatha via Kuranwade Ghat, instead of Bor Ghat. One of the narrowest passes, in the Western Ghats, separating Lohghad from Visaghad running parallel to Mumbai-Pune rail route, it is a popular trekking route in the Sahyadris.

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This pass would however be remembered for a historic battle fought here on February 3, 1661, when Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj defeated Kartalab Khan, the right hand man of Shaishta Khan, one of the most decisive victories ever, that further consolidated his position and strengthened the Marathas.

shiv

Kartalab Khan was Shaishta Khan’s right hand man, whom Aurangzeb specifically sent to crush Shivaji in 1660. Setting up base at Pune, he captured the Chakan fort by June 1660. And by 1661 Shaista Khan, sent him to capture the forts of Kalyan, Bhiwandi, Panvel, Chul and Nagothane in the North of Konkan. Along with Kartalab were the Rajput chieftains Chaturbuj Chauhan, Amarsingh Chandravat, Mitrasen and his brother Sarjerao Gadhe.

Kartalab Khan started from Pune on February 3, 1661, leading an army of 20,000 troops, which while was adept at open plains warfare, had no experience dealing with guerilla warfare which the Marathas used. His experience was primarily in the open plains of North India, that too against armies made up mostly of mercenaries. Here he was dealing with the Marathas in absolutely hill territory, who were ideologically driven by the Haindavi Swarajya dream.

Kartalab made his way via Chinchwad, Talegaon, Vadagon, and instead of taking a turn towards Lohagad fort, that was right on the border between the Sahayadris and Konkan, he took the steeper descent from Ghathmatha towards Umberkhind, a very narrow route. His original plan was to travel via the Bor Ghat( now the Khandala Ghat), which actually was much more wider.Fact is had Kartalab, taken the route via Bor Ghat, it would have been a much more tougher battle for Shivaji, as that was quite wide and open.

One aspect of Shivaji’s campaigns not that well known, is that he had an awesome intelligence network, which is how we actually managed to win so kany battles. He had spies, who would track every moment of the enemy, keeping him always one step ahead.

It was not just the intelligence gathering, Shivaji also used the tactics of disinformation really well to fool the enemy. And he did so here, feeding Kartalab Khan information through his spies, that Shivaji was at Pen, in Raigad district, throwing him off track. The disinformation strategy worked, it made Kartalab Khan change his original plan of travelling via Bor Ghat, to Umberkhind Pass, assuming that Shivaj was at Pen, when in fact he was waiting there. A trap had been set and Kartalab walked straight into it.

To put it into perspective Umbarkhind is 2200 feet above sea level, you would need a descent of 300 feet to Tugaranya, which was surrounded on all sides by forest and hills. And Kartalab Khan was actually planning to fight Shivaji at this place. Shivaji knew the Sahayadris and Western Ghats like the palm of his hand, he grew up there. What Kartalab Khan tried was equivalent to bearding the lion in his own den, that too a rather ferocious lion which had the fight in him.

The trap was the pass of Umberkhind where Shivaji and his 1000 strong men were hiding in wait, equipped with arrows, boulders, rifles. The thick dense forests, made it easy for the Marathas to camouflage themselves, from the Mughal soldiers. Mounted on a horse,holding a bow in one hand, with a spear in another, sword dangling from his waist, Shivaji Maharaj, waited for Kartalab and his army to descend the pass. The Marathas slowly surrounded the Mughal Army without them even being aware of it. It was a perfect trap, and by the time they reached the base, they were surrounded from all sides.

The Marathas began their attack by rolling boulders on to the hapless Mughal Army, And they were surrounded on all sides, even worse they could not even see them, due to the thick forest cover. It was a rout for the Mughal army, as the Marathas pounced on them, and within 2-3 hours, the battle was well and over.

shivk

Kartalab Khan had to send a message to Shivaji Maharaj, that he was willing to surrender and leave the place for good. Maharaj accepted the proposal, as Kartalab Khan, Mitrasen laid down their arms in front of him, all the other Maratha sardars fighting in Umberkhind, were asked to cease fire, as the Mughals made a retreat, leaving the entire armory to Shivaji, which gave the Marathas more firepower.

Not to mention large amounts of gold and jewelery. And some of the Mughal soldiers too switch sides to Shivaji. Netaji Palkar was put in charge of the Konkan, to thwart further attacks by the Mughals.

Once again a 1000 strong Maratha Army under Shivaji Maharaj had defeated a much larger Mughal force of around 20,000, just using smart strategy and tactics. The victory at Umberkhind is considered one of the great victories in Shivaji Maharaj’s career, and is commemorated every year on February 2 since 2001.

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Shiva Mitra, a Lonavala based organization has erected a victory memorial here that was inaugurated in 2007 by Babasaheb Purandhare and Udayan Raje Bhonsle. The memorial is around 12.5 m high, bearing a statue of Shivaji Maharaj in the front. A brief history of Umberkhind battle is engraved on the right side of the memorial.


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Trek to Samarbhumi Umberkhind - The Haunt of the Baba

Base: Kurvande
Distance : 75 Kms approx from Pune(By Road), 125 kms from Mumbai
(By Road)
Route:Pune-NH4-Lonavala-Kurvande

Its been such a long time that a posted on my blog that I nearly forgot I had one. Lot of water has flown down the Ganges, but my passion for trekking keeps going stong. So what compelled me to write down after so many days - it was just a picture I took out from my camera. It compelled me to put down the story of this trek. I call it the The Haunt of the Baba, more on that as you read on.

The best part about staying in Pune is that you are never short of trekking options, this was one which I really wanted to do, especially after reading about the valor of the marathas in the battle fought at this very place. Also because this was one of those battles in which Shivaji Maharaj himself fought. After several failed attempts to plan this trek, it finally needed a cancelled plan of range trek to Nasik to convert this trek to frutification.
 We were initially a group of 10 folks - me, Anoop and his 2 friends, Anupam, Athiappan,Gauravi, Nilanjan, Prashant and Shreya. As with most plans there are last minute drop outs and this one was no different. Nilanjan and Athiappan could not make it.

We decided to do this trek using public transport, the Pune Lonavala local was our choice of ride.
 I had already called up our contact in Kurvande Village to make arrangements for our breakfast and packed lunch. He was generous enough in helping to arrange for a vehicle to pick us from Lonavla station. We reached Chinchwad station on time for the 6.57 local, all of us boarded from the same location except for Gauravi who boarded from Pune Station. 26th January being a Public holiday, the local was mostly empty except for some passengers a few other trekkers who were going on treks in Lonavala region.

We reached Lonavala in about an hour and I called our driver for pick up, he was going to take another 10 mins to reach, so we had hot wada pav in the meantime near Lonavala station. The Sumo for our pick-up reached in time and we proceeded to Kurvande, it took about 15 minutes for us to reach there. We were dropped at our host, Vilas Borkar's house. He had already prepared Kande Pohe for us, after completing a heavy breakfast, he provided us with packed food in his own containers. I had already asked all the participants to bring empty tiffin boxes and everyone was not amused on carrying the empty boxes needlessly.

He also arranged the guide named Kailas for our trek, we enquired about the availability of water on the route, to which his reply was negative. We loaded our sacks with additional water bottles and proceeded for the trek.
The route for the trek is same as Duke's nose(also known as Nagphani) uptil a point. We need to take a left turn and follow the route parallel to INS Shivaji Fence.
The route is a sharp descent and full of scree. We treaded the route with utmost safety. Wherever possible we took breaks for photography. I had carried the National Flag for celebrating Republic Day. We took our group photo with the flag at the First plateau.

The trek was going to be a long and arduous one, I knew I had to encounter two of my greatest enemies in trek - scree and humidity. It was around 9.30 and we were already feeling the harsh sun, we kept chatting and keeping the spirits up. Anoop and I punted on who will slip on the trail,  Pooja was the first to slip, followed by Shreya. These two kept slipping quite a few times, although they didn't get hurt much, it was kind of funny. Back of my mind, I knew, I was always the next candidate, but that was not be - not atleast today. Next to slide was Nishant, he actually hurt his bum quite a bit, we thought it was hillarious. We kept following our guide on the trail, he narrated the story of Shivaji Maharaj and his army defeating Mughal army on this ghat. Further on the route we met one villager who was ascending towards Kurvande, he asked us about our plan and told that he was going to Kurvande and then to Lonavala for shopping and we were over awed.
We were all sweaty climbing down and here was one guy who hardly broke a sweat climbing up. The ruggedness of our Village folk keeps surprising me time and again. 

We reached the base by 11.30 a.m, it was going to take another 20 mins to reach the village, we crossed a few dry river beds on our way, couldn't help imagining how difficult this route could be during monsoons. After walking a few more minutes, we reached a water body, this was our small piece of paradise, we took a break here. Our guide, Kailas asked us to wait here while he visited one of the adivasi houses. Such an amazing and quite place.

All of us took out our footwear and dipped our feet in the cool water. I kept photographing the place and the people. After I while our guide was back and he asked us to pack and get a move as we still had a fair bit to cover. We packed and continued towards the village - Chavni (called so as Shivaji maharaj had camped here during the battle). Going further we found a bullock cart, I couldn't help captuirng it. Sometimes really simple things provide us so much joy.
Continuing further we came accross a flat mud track and everyone walked briskly I stopped a while to take out more pics and kept looking towards Duke's nose.
I turned around and was startled to find and old man standing behind me. For a moment it scared me, then I realised that it was just a curious villager. He had a very expressive face and something that would compel you to photograph him. He continued to haunt me for some time after taking his picture.

He didn't say a word even after asking him, as I had fallen back, I left him on his own and proceeded further. Everyone was waiting for me at the school in chavani village. We had the packed lunch of chapati and potato sabji. Refilled our bottle at the handpump, which are quite a few in chavani. The distance from Chavani to Shemdi phata(the Pali-Khopoli road ) is 5.5 kms, and we discovered later that it was the most challenging part of our journey. From Chavani onwards it is a walk on bad tar road. After a walk of around 2kms, we reached our destination - The Umberkhind Smarak.

We paid our respects here with a Jaighosh for Shivaji Maharaj, as I shouted Jai Bhavani - there was a reply of Jai Shivaji not only from my team members but from faraway as well, such is the power of Shivray that random people will also stop to pay their respect.
A little further ahead it was becoming increasing difficult to walk in the sun on the tarred road, there is very little shade on the road. It drained all of us, the girls especially Shreya was reluctant to walk. I had difficult time pushing her. Not her fault really, it was indeed difficult for me as well. I and her were the last people in the group, with greatest of difficulty we reached GAIL terminal. a little further ahead was the main road where we could get a vehicle for Khopoli.
To our surprise, our guide, Anupam and Prashant brought a six seater to pick us up, all smiles.
We reached khopoli in another 20 minutes or so. Everyone bought bottles of cold water and then had lassi to cool themselves.

It was around 3.30 p.m when we reached Khopoli bus stand, bus to Lonavala was due anytime. We boarded the bus as soon as it came, almost all of us managed to get a seat. We reached Lonvala and then took the next available local to reach home. Inside the local we all opened our foot wear, I discovered I had blisters on my feet, really painful experience for next couple of days. Nonetheless we all sang and played antakshri in the local, I don't remember who won in the end.
It was a season of good byes after the singing ended in Chinchwad. A trek accomplished safely once again.
 
 Great post and awesome pics! I also plan to do this trek. Do you have Vilas Borkar's mobile number?
 
 you can reach him on 9823081680
 
Lonavala Tour Packages - Travel Tourister provided best and cheapest Lonavala Tour Packages. Contact for Lonavala Tour Packages At Call@ 9971482795.
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Umbarkhind trek

ट्रेक उंबरखिंड


विजयस्तंभ



    मुघल सम्राट औरंगजेबाचा मामा शाइस्ताखान, शाहिस्तेखान, शाइस्तेखान हा दख्खनचा सुभेदार असताना छत्रपति शिवाजी महाराजांच्या स्वराज्यावर स्वारी करून पुण्यात आला होता. पुण्यात आल्यावर शाहिस्तेखान जनतेवर प्रचंड प्रमाणात अन्याय, अत्याचार व लुटालूट करत होता. मुघल सैन्याबरोबर समोरासमोर युद्ध करण्याएवढे सैन्यबळ नसल्यामुळे महाराजांचा नाईलाज होता. 

    जून १६६० ला त्याच्या बलाढ्य फौजेने ५६ दिवस लढून चाकणचा किल्ला घेतला होता. त्यानंतर १६६१ च्या सुरुवातीला शाइस्ताखानाने उझबेग सरदार कारतलब खानास छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांच्या ताब्यात असलेल्या उत्तर कोकण भागातील चौल, कल्याण, भिवंडी, पनवेल, नागोठणे ही ठिकाणे हस्तगत करण्याच्या धाडसी योजनेवर रवाना केले. कारतलब खानासोबत सावित्रीबाई उर्फ रायबाघण तसेच मुघलांचे अनेक सरदार ह्या मोहिमेत सहभागी झालेले होते. फौजफाटा जवळजवळ ३० हजारांवर होता. 

    २ फेब्रुवारी इ.स.१६६१ ला कारतलब खानाच्या नेतृत्वाखाली मुघल सैन्य पुण्याहून निघून लोहगडच्या बाजूने भोर घाटाकडे न जाता घाटमाथ्यावरुन कुरवंडे घाटातुन उंबरखिंडीच्या दिशेने उतरु लागले. लोहगड आणि विसापुर सारख्या किल्ल्यांवरून तीस हजार मुघल सैन्याला प्रतिकार होणे शक्यच नव्हते. कुरवंडेची घाटवाट ड्युक्स नोजच्या डाव्या बाजुने खाली कोकणात उतरते. त्यावेळेस ती वाट नळीसारखी  होती आता तिथे खोदकाम करून रस्ता बनवण्याचा प्रयत्न करण्यात आलेला आहे आणि तो तसाच अर्धवट सोडून देखील दिलेला आहे. त्यामुळे कुरवंडे घाटाचे खरेखुरे रूप पाहावयास मिळणे आता शक्य नाही. खरेखुरे म्हणजे युद्धप्रसंगाच्या वेळी जसे होते तसे. नळीसारख्या बारिक वाटेने सह्याद्रीचा अवघड घाट उतरुन मुघल सैन्य पुढे उंबरखिंडीत आले. कुरवंडे घाट उतरताना समोर कितीही मोठे सैन्य लपलेले असले तरीही ते घाटावरून उतरणाऱ्या व्यक्तीला दिसणे शक्य नाही अशी तेथील भौगोलिक रचना आहे. या ट्रेकच्या निमित्ताने मी याचा अनुभव घेतला आणि यावरून छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांच्या अचाट बुद्धिकौशल्याची प्रचिती आली. "शक्तीपेक्षा युक्ती श्रेष्ठ" या म्हणीचे यापेक्षा समर्पक दुसरे कोणतेही उदाहरण नसावे. हा घाट उतरताना विशेषकरून छावणी गाव तर दिसतच नाही. आणि याच ठिकाणी महाराज आणि मराठा सैन्य छावणी करून मुघल सैन्याची वाट पाहत दबा धरून बसलेले होते. उंबरखिंडीत मुघल सैन्य आल्यानंतर सर्व शूर मराठा सरदार आणि त्यांचे सैन्य महाराजांच्या इशाऱ्याची वाट पाहत होते. जशी इशारत झाली तशी घनदाट अरण्यात लपून बसलेल्या छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांच्या सैन्याने मुघलांवर बाणांच्या वर्षावाने व तोफांच्या गोळ्यांनी हल्ला सुरू केला. तो हल्ला एवढा अकस्मात आणि भयानक होता कि मुघल सैन्याला प्रतिकार करण्यासाठी शस्त्र सुद्धा उचलता आले नाही. त्यादिवशी आंबा नदीतुन रक्ताचे पाट वाहिले. शाईस्ताखानाने पुण्यात आल्यापासुन जनतेवर जे काही अत्याचार केले होते, स्वराज्यात जी काही लूट केली होती त्याचा सूड उगवण्याची नामी संधी मराठा सैन्याला मिळाली होती आणि या संधीचे त्यांनी सोने केले.  

    मुघल सरदार मित्रसेन व अमरसिंह यांनीही मराठा सैन्याचा बाणांचा हल्ला करुन प्रतिकार करण्यास सुरुवात केली. जंगलात व डोंगरावरुन गनिमी कावा पद्धतीने युद्ध करणार्‍या मराठा सैन्याला घाबरुन मुघल सैनिक मार्ग मिळेल तिकडे पळत होते. त्यांना पळता भुई थोडी झालेली होती पण सर्व मार्ग शिवाजी राजांच्या सैन्याने अडवून धरलेले असल्यामुळे ते आयते तोफेच्या समोर येत होते, त्यातुन वाचले तर झाडाझुडुपांतून कुठूनही बाण सुं सुं करत छातीचा वेध घेत असे, याच्यातुन वाचला तर भाल्याचे पाते आणि या सर्वातूनही एखादा वाचलाच तर त्याच्यावर तलवार चालवली जात असे. कत्तल म्हणतात ती अशीच असावी बहुतेक. मुघल सैन्याची मराठा सैन्याकडून कत्तल होत असताना, सपशेल पराभव समोर दिसत असताना अन्य कोणताही पर्याय न उरल्यामुळे रायबाघण यांच्या सल्लावरुन कारतलब खानाने तह करण्यासाठी छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांकडे दूत पाठवला. एका स्त्रीच्या पाठीमागे लपुन कारतलब खानाने आपला जीव वाचवला. 

    पाठीवर बाणांचे भाते, एका हातात धनुष्य व दुसर्‍या हातात भाला, कमरेला तलवार, मस्तकावर शिरस्त्राण, शरीरावर चिलखत व ढाल ह्या युद्धसज्ज वेशात छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराज घोड्यावर बसलेले होते.

    कारतलब खानाचा दूत छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांकडे आला व "कारतलब खान पूर्ण शरणागती पत्करतो आहे व ह्या प्रदेशातून बाहेर पडण्यासाठी परवानगी मागत आहे." हा संदेश दुताने छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांना दिला. छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांनी विनंती मान्य करुन, कारतलब खानाला मुघल सैन्यासह निघून जाण्यास सांगितले. हा संदेश दूताने कारतलब खानाकडे पोहोचवला. तेव्हा कारतलब खान, मित्रसेन व इतर मुघल सरदारांनी छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांना खंडणी पाठवली. त्यांच्याकडील सर्व शस्त्र आणि खजिना जप्त करून स्वराज्याच्या खजिन्यात जमा करण्यात आला. उंबरखिंडीत वेगवेगळ्या भागात लढत असलेल्या मराठा सैन्याला युद्धबंदीचा इशारा देण्यात आला व मुघल सैन्याला आल्या वाटेने परत पाठवण्यात आले. या नामुष्कीनंतर शाईस्तेखानाला चांगलीच चपराख बसली आणि यांनतर त्याने कोणतीही जोखीम पत्करली नाही. तो पुण्यातच तळ ठोकुन राहीला. 
    ह्या युद्धात शिवाजी महाराज स्वतः हजर होते, म्हणून हे युद्ध मराठा इतिहासात महत्त्वाचे मानले जाते. त्यावेळेस छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराज राजगडावर वास्तव्यास असत. अनेकदा मृत्यूवर आपली भवानी तलवार उगारून महाराज झेपावलेत ते राजगडावरूनच. या युद्धाचा विजयोत्सव दरवर्षी २ फेब्रुवारी रोजी साजरा केला जातो. लोणावळा येथील 'शिवदुर्ग मित्र' ह्या संस्थेने २००१ साली उंबरखिंडीत अंबा नदीच्या पात्राशेजारी "ध्वजस्तंभ" उभारुन हा विजयोत्सव सुरु केला. त्यानंतर दरवर्षी हा उत्सव साजरा करण्यात येतो.

    २ फेब्रुवारी २००७ रोजी छावणी ग्रामस्थ (ता. खालापूर, जि. रायगड) आणि या संस्थेने मिळुन येथे एक "युद्ध विजयस्तंभ" उभारलेला आहे, या विजयस्तंभाचे उद्घाटन बाबासाहेब पुरंदरे व उदयनराजे भोसले यांच्या हस्ते करण्यात आले. उंबरखिंड युद्ध विजयस्तंभाची उंची १२.५० मीटर असून, स्तंभाच्या समोरील बाजूस शिवाजी महाराजांचे शस्त्रसज्ज वेशातील शिल्प आहे. मागील बाजूस उद्घाटनाची कोनशिला असून, डावीकडे आज्ञापत्रातील वृक्षांविषयीची माहिती व उजवीकडील बाजूस उंबरखिंडच्या लढाईचा थोडक्यात इतिहास कोरलेला आहे. दगडी स्तंभाच्या वर ढाल, तलवार, भाला, धनुष्य, ध्वजस्तंभ ह्याच्या मोठ्या प्रतिकृती करुन ठेवल्या आहेत.

    या युद्धप्रसंगावरून "खिंडीत पकडणे" हा वाक्प्रचार मराठी भाषेत रूढ झालेला आहे. शाइस्तेखानाच्या पुणे स्वारीनंतर मराठी भाषेत एक म्हण सुद्धा तयार झाली ती म्हणजे "जीवावर आले पण बोटांवर निभावले" आणि या बोटे कापण्याच्या प्रसंगावरून "कात्रजचा घाट दाखवणे" हा अजून एक वाक्प्रचारही आलेला आहे.  

    जगातील अनेक युद्धविषयक अभ्यासक्रमात या लढाईचा आवर्जून अभ्यास केला जातो. इस्राएल  आणि व्हिएतनाम सारख्या देशांनी छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांच्या अशा अनेक युद्धनीती प्रत्यक्षात  वापरुन अनेक विजय मिळवलेले आहेत. उंबरखिंडचे युद्ध इतिहासातील इतर कोणत्याही युद्धापेक्षा तसूभरही कमी नाही. उंबरखिंड हि छत्रपती शिवाजी महाराजांच्या पराक्रमाची विजयगाथा आहे. आपणास मराठा म्हणवणाऱ्या वाघरांनी या खिंडीचे दर्शन घ्यायलाच हवे. 
    तर अशा या उंबरखिंडीला भेट देण्याची आणि तो प्रदेश स्वतःच्या डोळ्यांनी पाहण्याचा योग जुळून आला. कुरवंडे घाट आणि उंबरखिंड पाहण्याची तीव्र इच्छा खूप दिवसांपासुन मनामध्ये होती. सह्याद्री ट्रेकर्स फाऊंडेशनने हा ट्रेक आयोजित केल्याबद्दल मी त्यांचा आभारी आहे. हि खिंड नुसती पाहिलीच नाही तर चावणी गावातुन कुरवन्डे घाटमार्गाने ड्युक्स नोजपर्यन्त चालत आलो. सध्या या मार्गावर तोडफोड करून रस्ता बनवण्याचा प्रयत्न करण्यात आल्याचे स्पष्ट जाणवते. त्यामुळे कारतलब खान आणि त्याच्या सैन्याने जी घाटवाट अनुभवली ती अनुभवयास मिळाली नाही. बसने आम्हाला चावणी गावाजवळ सोडले आणि खंडाळा तलावाजवळ आम्हाला घेण्यासाठी येऊन थांबली. एसटीएफने अतिशय सुंदर व्यवस्था केली होती. बस अगदी सांगितलेल्या वेळेतच म्हणजे भल्या पहाटे ०४:२० ला सांगितलेल्या थांब्यावर आली होती. सर्व व्यवस्था चोख होती आणि अतिशय सुरळीतपणे हा ट्रेक पुर्ण झाला. 

टीप: मी इतिहासकार वगैरे कोणीही नसून इंटरनेट वरून तसेच वाचनात आलेल्या पुस्तकांतुन हि माहिती गोळा केलेली आहे. 













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https://reflectedmarathi.blogspot.com/2021/12/umbarkhind-trek.html




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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