Wednesday, November 6, 2024

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Kartikeya



Sculpture of Kartikeya from the Abhineri complex. 8th Century CE

Murugan, Abhineri, sculpture, mutilated, Harshat mata mandir,

A sculpture of Kartikeya (also known as Shanmugha, Muruga etc.) at the Abhineri stepwell – Harshat Mata Mandir complex 

October 2024 – Stone stories


goddess, abhaneri,

This sculpture is being reinstalled in the 8th century Chand Baoli stepwell alcoves. It is from the Harshat Mata Mandir .

With my limited knowledge, I was trying to decode the iconography when I came across the informative website by Jio Institue: https://bit.ly/4hu0xq3

I reproduce the caption from that site verbatim. [copy rights duly acknowledged]

Quote:

An eight-armed goddess stands on a lotus and naravahana (human corpse). Her form appears emaciated with sagging breasts and a sunken stomach. She has her mouth open and is pointing her little finger towards it with her left hand. She holds a trident in her right hand, as well as a khappar (skull bowl) and naramunda (severed head) spear in her left hand. The remaining hands are broken.

Balarama with the plough

The Abhineri stepwell and the Harshat Mata Temple complex in Abhineri are believed to be from the 8th Century C.E.

The complex was vandalised by Muslim invaders led by Mohammed Ghazni.

The mutilated sculpture of Balarama is from the Harshat Mata Mandir. It is being reinstalled in the arcade around the Abhaneri stepwell.

Mahishasuramardni at Abhaneri

I added one more Mahishasurmardini to my collection. This was found in the Abhaneri stepwell complex and must have been part of the Harshat Mata mandir nearby. This is believed to be from the 8-9 Century C.E. sponsored by King Chanda of the Nikhumbh dynasty. The complex was vandalised by Muslim invaders led by Mohammed Ghazni. 

St.Philomena’s Cathedral

St.Philomena’s Cathedral

St. Philomena’s Cathedral in the heart of Myasur city is a major tourist attraction.

It was a gift by the Maharaja of Mysore in 1843 to the Catholics of the city to honor St. Philomena who lived in the city. The official name of the church is the Cathedral of St.Joseph and St. Philomena.

It is one of the tallest churches in India and designed to resemble the one in Cologne. 

Chariot Carvings

Wooden carvings

Thiruneermalai complex consists of two temples. Neervanna Perumal in standing pose on the base temple. On the hill, there are sannadhis for Ranganatha (kidanda pose), Narasimha (in Irudna pose) and Trivikrama (Ulagalanda Perumal in nadanda pose) .

The temple ther has several carvings, including Narasimha, Ranganatha and Trivikrama as seen above.

January 2024 – Stone stories


Othandeeswarar temple, Thirumazhisai

The Othandeswarar temple in Thirumazhisai is an 11th-century Chola period temple, built by Kulothunga Cholan. There is a legend associated with the temple.

According to the legend, the king was returning home after a hunt near Thriumullaivasal when his path was obstructed by a thick vine. He cut through the vine with his sword, only to find blood oozing from the thicket. Upon closer examination, he discovered that he had accidentally slashed a Shiva lingam. Realizing his mistake, he cut off his hand to expiate the sin and offered it to the lingam. In response to his devotion, Shiva appeared to him with Parvati, restored his hand, and blessed him.

The Lord is also known as Kai Thantha Piran, while the Goddess is known as Kulirvitha Nayagi.

The temple is situated right on the Chennai-Thiruttani road about 25 km from the city. 

October 2023 – Stone stories


The primary deity in the Shiva temple at Madambakkam, near Tambaram, is Shiva in the form of a Swayambhu lingam. According to belief, a cow was nourishing the lingam in the forest with milk until it was discovered by some individuals. The temple was constructed by Sundara Chola, the father of Raja Raja Chola I, around 950 C.E. Hence, it predates the Brahadeeswara temple in Thanjavur.

Subsequently, the Vijayanagara rulers renovated the temple and added the mandapam. The mandapam showcases fascinating sculptures, some of which I have included below.

Madambakkam is located approximately 4 to 5 kilometers from the Velachery-Tambaram Main road.

This was mentioned as Sidhi Ganapathi, but I think this is Ucchishta Ganapathy
Bagasura Vadham by Sri Krishna
Mahishasura mardini
Ardha nariswara?
Subramanya
Kacchhabbeswarar
A nayanar?
Somaskandan
Vira bhadrar. See lingam on the forhead
Ashta dik palakas on the roof – Guardians of the 8 directions.

More on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhenupureeswarar_Temple_(Madambakkam)

October 2019 – Stone stories


The boy and the crocodile

The boy and the crocodile

Sundaramurthy Nayanar was an eighth-century poet-saint and one of the most important Nayanars.

He is believed to have performed many miracles thanks to his great devotion to Shiva.

The Northern face of the gopuram at Kapali temple depicts one such miracle. During his journey through Kongu Nadu, he was informed about an eight-year-old boy who was swallowed by a crocodile at Avinashi (near Coimbatore). Using his divine powers Sundarar resurrected the boy, to the amazement of all. This event is commemorated every year as “Mudalai vaay pillai utsavam” on Panguni Uthram at the Avinashishwarar temple, Avinashi.

Shiva Vishnu

Shiva and Vishnu on the Koviloor temple wall

Shivalingam is flanked by two Nandis. Vishnu on Anantha flanked by two hamsas. A depiction on the walls of Sri Kotravaaleeswarar (shiva) temple in Koviloor near Karaikkudi. These images were repeated at least 3 or 4 times on the peripheral wall.

From the Karaikkudi trip with The Photographic Society of Madras.  

February 2023 – Stone stories


Emblem

The emblem on the front wall of the Basilica of Bom Jesus, Goa.

IHS is derived from the Greek – Iesus Homimum Salvator – Jesus, the Saviour of Men (Humanity). I am unable to decode the other elements in this crest.

Photographing this from the ground was a challenge. I had to use software to correct the distortion and perspective. I am happy with the results.

This also took me back 60 years to the emblem and motto of my school, Christian College High School, Chetput. ‘In Hoc Signo’ which is derived from ‘In Hoc Signo Vince’ – Under this Sign Conquer.

basilica of Bom Jesus, Goa. January 2023

The Basilica of Bom Jesus is one of the most important churches of Goa. It was consecrated in 1605. The main altar houses Ignatius Loyola with baby Jesus. The monument is declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. The basilica also houses the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, a close associate of Loyola. St. Francis died somewhere in China and his body was brought to Goa after several months. The relic is taken out for public view once in ten years. The next exposition will be in November 2024.

The exterior laterite offers many interesting photo perspectives During this visit, photography was banned inside. Fortunately, I have some interior pictures from 2013 when there was no restriction on photography.

The casket with relics of St. Francis Xavier
The main altar

The laterite exterior with flying buttresses (added later) on one side gives it a unique look. Inside, the altars and twisted pillars are gilded. There are many wood carvings and paintings inside.

I learnt that there are 32 forms of Ganapathy. Some of them are, Bala Ganapathi, Heramba Ganapathi, Maha ganapathi, Nritya ganapathi, Sankatahara Ganpathi, Shakthi Ganapthi, Ucchishta Ganapthi etc.(No. Drishti Ganapathi is not one of them).

On a cue from Dr Chitra Madhavan, I saw this figure of Hermaba Ganapathy on the 2nd tier of Kapaliswarar koil Rajgopuram. Heramba Ganapathy has 5 heads with 10 arms bearing various weapons, modakam etc. He sits on a lion. This vahanam is believed to be a gift from his beloved mother, Parvati.

  • Heramba Ganapathi on a Mahabalipuram street

Heramba Ganapathi is not very common in South India. However, I found this Heramba Ganapati installed on the roadside in front of some sculpture workshops/ stores on Mamallapuram main road.

See also Nritya Ganapati Dancing Ganesha

And also Unique Ganapathy

January 2023 – Stone stories


The Pittu Paatti and the lazy labourer

The story so far in brief (in case you have not read the previous post):  Manickavasagar was entrusted with a large sum by the king to procure horses for the cavalry. Manickavasagar spent the money on building a Shiva temple. To save Manickavasagar from the king’s wrath, Shiva transformed all the foxes and jackals in the area into horses and presented them to the king.

See post.

Now read on.

The next day, all the horses reverted to the foxes and jackals. The king was furious and he wanted to punish Manckavasagar by making him stand on the dry basin of river Vaigai in peak summer. To save his devotee, Shiva sent down torrential rains. The Vaigai was in a spate threatening to submerge Madurai. The king ordered a bund to be built to protect the city. He also ordered every family to send one able-bodied person for this work.

There was an old lady living all alone. She earned her livelihood by selling Puttu (Pittu) and was known as a Puttu paati. She was worried that she had no one to send for the manual labour and she herself was too old. She was praying to Lord Shiva when a young lad appeared in the doorway. He begged the paati to give him something to eat. In exchange, he was prepared to do any work for her. Paati gave the boy some puttu and sent him to work on the King’s project. At the work site, the boy dozed off under a tree, while the others were busy. Seeing this, the  King got furious and ordered the boy to be whipped. With every whiplash, the whole city trembled and everybody felt the pain. The King and all courtiers realized that the boy was none other than Lord Shiva and had come to protect his devotees. The King released Manickvasagar and handsomely rewarded the old lady.

The scene on Kapali Rajgopuram tier 2 probably represents this episode of the Puttu paati.

From Tier 2 of the Kapali Rajagopuram. This scene is  an episode in the life of Manickvasagar – one of the Naalvars (leading Saivaite Saints)

Manickavasagar was a senior minister in the court of the Pandyan King in the 9th C.CE. Once, the king entrusted him with a large amount of money and asked to procure some fine horses for his cavalry. Manickavasagar set out on the mission. On the way, he met a saintly old man (who was in fact Siva in disguise) and became his disciple. He attained enlightenment and became an ardent devotee of Shiva. Using the entire king’s money he built a temple for Lord Shiva at Thiruperunturai which is now known as Avudayaar Koil. The king came to know about this and sent word that unless he returns with the money or the horses he would face severe punishment. Realizing the gravity of the situation, Manickavasagar appealed to Lord Shiva to help him. The Lord assured him that nothing would happen to him as the horses will be delivered to the King on Avani Moolam day. This was duly conveyed to the King who was apprehensive. The Lord rounded up all the foxes in the area and transformed them into fine horses. On the appointed day the horses were herded into the Kings palace. Seeing the healthy and fine horses the King was pleased and exonerated Manickavasagar.

The story does not end there. Wait for more.

This describes an episode in Mahabharata. Arjuna is doing severe penance in the forest to propitiate Indra and then, Shiva to re-arm himself for the impending war with the Kauravas.

After severe penance Shiva appears in the form a Kirata (a hunter). At that time, a boar is about to attack Arjuna. The Kirata shoots an arrow. So does Arjuna and the boar is felled. Both approach the felled boar. Both of them claim the kill. An argument follows. Unable to settle the claim, they engage in a duel using all the available weapons. The Kirata neutralizes all of Arjuna’s weapons and subdues him. Arjuna now realizes that  the Kirata is none other than Shiva and prostrates before him. Pleased, Shiva gifts him the all-powerful  Pasupathastra.

This episode is immortalized by poet Bharvi in his epic Sanskrit poem Kirataarjuniya around the 6th Century C.E. This also is depicted in many ancient temple sculptures, notably the Kailasanathar temple,  Kanchipuram.

We see this in the Kapali East Rajgopuram on the Northern end of Tier 1.

Viswamitra and Menaka.

This scene depicting sage Viswamitra and Menaka is made famous by the painting of Raja Ravi Varma.

Viswamitra was a highly venerated rishi who was doing a severe penance to attain greater power and status. Indra was afraid that Viswamitra would gain uncontrollable powers. He sends the celestial maiden Menaka to entice the sage and disrupt the penance. The sage initially resists but finally succumbs to her charms. Menaka and Viswamitra live as man and wife. Menaka gives birth to a child (Sakuntala). Viswamitra now realizes it was a ruse and curses Menaka. Sakuntala is left in the forest and is adopted by sage Kanva. She grows up as Sakuntala, marries King Dushyanta and begets Bharata, after whom the country is named.

Ananda Tandavam on tier 3

Vyaghrapada.

Vyaghrapada was a Rishi devoted to Lord Shiva. He was doing penance in the Thillai forests near Chidambaram and his desire was to see the Lords’ Ananda Tandavam.

He collected flowers daily from the forests but could not go deep into the forest. He also observed that bees, birds and butterflies have already taken the nectar from the blooms. He wanted fresh flowers in abundance for the Lord. So, Shiva gave him limbs of a tiger so that the can overcome thorns and sharp stones and also climb tall trees for fresh flowers. He was also gifted feline eyes so  that he could go into the forest much before sunrise to get fresh flowers.

Patanajali. This name appears in several Sanskrit literatures as the author of Yoga Sutra, interpreter of Sanskrit Grammar, teacher of Ayurveda and Siddha etc. Whether they are different persons or the same is a matter of debate among scholars.

The Patanjali we are talking about is the one who appears in temple iconography. He is shown as a half human half snake. He is an incarnation of Adishesha.

Once Adisesha- or Ananta – the endless one, told  Vishnu that he wishes to see the Ananda Thandavam of Siva in Thillai (Chidambaram). Vishnu said that his desire will be fulfilled soon. At the same time, Rishi Atri and his wife Anusuya were praying for a child. While having a bath in the river, scooping water in her hands, Anusuya saw a snake-like creature in her palm. Shocked, she dropped it and it turned into a beautiful child with a serpent as a lower half. He was named Patanjalai, meaning one who fell (pata) from open palms (Anjali). He also moved to Thillai to serve Shiva.

Often Vyaghrapada and Patanjali are shown witnessing Ananda Tandavam as in this sculpture on the 3rd level of Kapaliswarar temple, Rajagopuram. Parvati and Manickavasagar are also on the panel.

Uncropped image

Note1. This series is inspired by a talk on the 3 Mylapore Temples by Dr Chitra Madhavan, historian on 8th January in connection with the Mylapore Festival 2023. Material has also been borrowed from other sources, offline and online.

Note 2. The photographs are not of high quality due to the problems of angle, distance, depth etc. caused by topographical, access and time constraints. Sometimes cables, wires, lamps and other electrical fittings mar the beauty

Kapaleeswara rajagopuram

I wish to start a new series of posts – Tales from the Gopurams. Gopurams, the gateway towers to most Hindu temples offer a breathtaking array of colourful sculptures depicting many puranic episodes in the form of miniature thumbnails. I have been astonished by their beauty and variety. Usually these are not as ancient as the main temple. Sometimes they are built later or rebuilt on old ruins. Their grandeur and aesthetics are determined by the skill, time and resources available to the sponsors. These are executed by ordinary artisans, masons, and potters in stucco, mortar or terra cotta.

This series is inspired by a talk of the 3 Mylapore Temples by Dr Chitra Madhavan, historian on 8th January in connection with the Mylapore Festival 2023. Material has also been borrowed from other sources, offline and online.

The story of Bhringi.

Bhringi with Siva Parvathy

In some sculptures, you might have seen an emaciated figure in skin and bones with three legs. This is Bhringi muni.

Bhringi was an ardent devotee of Shiva and recognized no other divine entity. Once on a visit to Kailash he circumambulated only Shiva completely ignoring Parvati. Seeing this Parvati sat on Shiva’s lap. Bhringi turned himself into a beetle and did pradakshin of only Shiva through a gap between the two. Enraged by this, Parvati cursed Bhringi to lose his flesh and blood (which are considered the feminine aspects of the body) and remain a bag of skin and bones. Taking pity on the sage, Shiv gave him a third leg to stand like a tripod. Bhringi understood that Shakti and Shiva – the male and female – are one and prostrated before them.

The concept of Arthanareeswarar is also associated with this incident.

This episode of Shiv and Parvati on a Nandi blessing Bhringi is on the Kapaliswarar Rajagopuram on the Eastern side first level on the left.

The photographs are not of high quality due to the problems of angle, depth etc. caused by topographical, access and time constraints. Sometimes cables, wires, lamps and other electrical fittings mar the beauty.

August 2022 – Stone stories


It is a wayside temple opposite the IT park, sandwiched between OMR expressway and the MRTS tracks. It is inconspicuous except during some festive days. The main deity is Amman. There is pillayar shrine too.

Behind the temple, there is a banyan tree which is covered with an assortment of pooja offerings. Among this clutter, I almost missed the 6-inch tall Krishna subduing the serpent Kaliya. I am not sure if it was carved in wood or cast in clay. Whatever, it was charming!

Even a wayside temple of Amman and Ganesa gives an appropriate place and importance for the respective vahanas of the Gods. In this case Simha and mooshika respectively. 

Ramayana Panels in Kambhaharesvara Temple, Tribhuvanam

The Kambhaharesvara Temple, Tribhuvanam is one of the four major Chola Temples in Thanjavur – Kumbakonam area. It was built by Kulottunga III in the early 13th C.CE.  In sculptural richness, it equals the Airavatesvara temple, Darasuram, in quality and abundance.

There are intricate bas reliefs everywhere including the base of the mandapams and garbhagriha.  Some of the mini panels represent scenes from the puranas, battle or hunting scenes, dancers, and musicians. Elephants, lions, and yaalis are also frequently seen in these panels.

I could not make out the episodes depicted in many of the panels. For example, these two.

A quick search on the web led me to the book, “Kambhaharesvara Temple at Tribhuvanam” by H Sarkar of ASI published by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Tamil Nadu in 1974. According to Sarkar, these two panels represent the Surpanakha episode of Ramayana. In the first, Surpanakha appears as an attractive woman. Lakshmana is seen fighting her. She appears twice in this panel.

In the next panel, Surpanakha takes her real demonic form. Lakshmana climbs on her right shoulder (left, according to Sarkar) and cuts off her nose and ears. In the same panel, she is seen running away. Sarkar says that her breasts are intact (in line with Valmiki Ramayan). To me, it looks like her breast is chopped off in the second image, as per Kamba Ramayan. You be the judge.

There are several such panels and I could cover only a few of them during my short visit.

Mahishasuramardini on vimanam, Gangaikonda cholapuram

I had missed Gangaikondacholapuram, the magnificent temple built by Rajendra Chola in 11th C.CE. During my visit in September 2021, it was a Sunday when I reached there and the temple was closed due to the pandemic. I managed to have glimpsed of the magnificent structure from the road and also grabbed a few frames quickly to get back into the car where my family was waiting impatiently.

On reviewing the frames I could discern some of the sculptures in the vimanam. Though this was taken at 45mm, I could see many distinct images including this ‘kutti’ Mahishasuramadini. She was flanked by a Bairavan and a few others, including Sri Rama.

The original frame is also posted.

Nikon D7000 f/9; 1/250; ISO 100 Sigma 18-125 @ 45mm.

Cropped and details upped on LR.

The original frame
A yogini

Rani ki vav has several sculptures of Vishnu and his avatars and other Gods. However, there is also an abundance of female figures in the form of Apsaras, naga kanyas and yoginis. This yogini appears between the panels of Balarama and Srirama.

She has a bowl (kapala?) with a fish in her right hand held above her head. The left-hand holds a mace with a skull head (Khatvanga?). She appears to be in a dancing pose. She has ornaments including necklaces, waistband, anklets, bracelets, eardrops, etc.  She seems to be wearing animal skin on her waist. At her feet, there is a bearded man beating a drum.

Interestingly, she is wearing sandals on her feet. This is distinct from the apsaras and naga kanyas, who were barefooted. My interpretation of this is this: The apsaras are celestial beings and they fly from place to place. The naga kanyas slither their way. The yoginis are earthlings and they need to walk. Hence the sandals.

The figure is framed by a series of mini panels depicting deities. Varaha and Narasimha are easily discernible.

Durga Mahishasuramardini at Rani ki vav stepwell

One of the most exquisite and intricate high relief sculpture of Mahishasuramardini is at Rani-ki-Vav,Patan, Gujarat. This 11th century sandstone sculpture is well preserved, probably because it was covered with sand and mud for many decades and was excavated fully in the 1980’s.

The whole panel is in high relief – almost full relief, making us wonder how the entire carving was done with the limited tools and technology available in the 11th century.

Though in battle mode, the Goddess looks very elegant and the posture is graceful. The ornament details are easily discernible in the crown, earrings, neckbands, necklaces, girdle, bracelets, armbands, anklets etc.

She has 10 pairs of hands. In the right hands she holds the trident, vajra (thunderbolt), arrow, gadha (mace) ankush (prod/goad) spear, chakra like weapon, lotus, dumroo and sword.

The left hands hold the hair of the demon trying to escape in human form, lower shaft of the trishul, a hooded weapon, pasha (rope/ noose), a bow, war horn, three headed-cobra, and skull cup with fish, a bell and a shield.

The lion is assisting in the annihilation of the demon. The main figure is framed at the back with 4 mini panels on either side depicting female deities and crowned by a torana with a female deity and assorted figures.

What is the chakra on the buffalo’s body? Is it the clone of the Sudarshana Chakra given to Maa Durga by Mahavishnu? Did she use this first before the trident?

Ananthasayi Vishnu on the Eastern side of Kund

Vishnu in Ananthasayana pose.

As I entered the Sun Temple complex in Modhera, I was overwhelmed by the imposing sight of the Kund, the Sabhamandapa, and the Gudhamandapa all in a row. I did not know where to begin. Logic prevailed and I started with the kund (pushkarani). This had many niche shrines at every level and every corner. The access was through narrow and steep steps. I struck gold in the first niche itself on the Eastern side.

Here I came across the miniature, yet iconic image of Vishnu in Anantha sayi pose in bas relief. Unlike Perumals in South India who have the head on our left,* this Vishnu is reclining on Anantha with his head on our right (South). The seven hoods of the serpent form a canopy over His head. His lower left-hand rests on his thigh. The left lower arm is broken. The upper right-hand carries the mace and the left one the chakra.

Lakshmidevi sits at his feet. The usual Padma from the nabhi with Brahma is absent. Above the deity, there is a strip of small figures. Indra on his elephant Iravatha, a lion, and a demon are clearly discernible.  Above the relief, there is a frieze of demonic figures with arms. There are three niches with deities who are not identifiable. Below the hood of the serpent, there is a horse-like animal.

Below Anantha, there is a separate frieze of human figures which are not identifiable. There is a horizontal line or rope connecting the figures which makes me believe that this could be the ‘Sagar Manthan’ scene.

This image is precious for another reason. I knew I had seen this bas relief but could not locate its image in my camera, hard disc, or memory card even two weeks after returning home. Finally, I remembered that I had taken some pictures with my Samsung Galaxy phone. Lo and behold, this iconic image popped out of the phone!

Reference: The Sun Temple at Modhera – A Monograph on Architecture and Iconography by Wibke Lobo

(*) except in Sonna Vannam Seitha Perumal (Yadothkari Perumal) temple in Kanchipuram where He has his head on our right. There is a story behind that.

Varuna

Varuna at Sun Temple, Modhera

Varuna, the Lord of the Oceans, stands in a niche on the Northwest corner facing West. His face is badly eroded and the arms are broken but the kirita appears in partial glory. His pasha (rope/noose) is partially visible. Some ornaments like girdle, armband, etc are still visible.

A graceful female figure is by his right leg. On his left side, a male figure sits cross-legged on a pedestal. The head of the male is broken but some ornaments and an angavastram like sash are visible. Part of the pasha graces his shoulder. Only one Gandharva/ vidhyadhara is visible. Varuna’s vahana – makara –crocodile is conspicuous by its absence.

The lower two sub panels depict apsaras and the upper two have some deities.

Nirrti of South West

Nirrti rules the South West.

Sometimes Nirrti is depicted with demonic features. However, here he is shown with a benign face but devoid of any clothing except for serpents coiling around his body. He has ornate makuta, neckbands, and a chain that looks like it is made of bones and skulls. Two of his arms are missing. His lower right-hand holds an object like a dumbbell or a Vajra. Some experts say it could be the hilt of a sword blade of which is broken. His left-hand rests casually on his thigh.

His vahana is a human being lying near his right leg. Another male figure is on his left side but damaged except for the torso. He too is naked but has coiled serpents around his body.

The two vidhyadharas have fierce facial features, unlike other panels.

The two lower sub-panels have apsaras as usual and the upper left subpanel depicts a bearded deity – probably Brahma,. the upper right relief is a female deity.

Please also see Ashtadikpalakas of Raja Rani Temple from my earlier posts.

Reference: The Sun Temple at Modhera – A Monograph on Architecture and Iconography by Wibke Lobo

Agni at Sun Temple Modhera

The Sun Temple at Modhera, Gujarat predates the Konarak temple by 225 years. It was built by Bhima I of the Chalukya/Solanki dynasty in c.1026 CE probably to commemorate the successful defence of the town against the first assault of Mohammed Ghazni.

The temple complex consists of a Kund (Pushkarani – tank) , a Sabhamandapa, and the Gudha mandapa. The temple is dedicated to the sun god Surya. There is no idol now in the sanctum sanctorum.  There are exquisite carvings of deities, apsaras, and scenes from everyday life and from the epics. Different aspects Of Surya are depicted in the panels: So also those of Vishnu, Shiva and ashta dik palakas.

A typical panel consists of a main panel bounded by two pillars and crowned by a stepped triangular pediment. The main panel has on either side 2 smaller panels one above the other. The lower sub-panel is slightly bigger than the upper one.

AGNI: In this South East panel we see Agni, one of the dikpalakas. In his upper left hand, he holds a kapala. His lower left-hand holds another object. Both his right hands are damaged. He has a pointed and well-groomed moustache and beard. His belt is heavy and highly ornamented. His yanjopavitam and necklaces are very clearly seen.  The chains like festoons come up to the knees. He has doughnut-shaped earrings on both ears. The crown is also very ornamental.

Near his right leg, there is a female attendant with a whisk. Between the leg and the attender there is a figure of an animal which can be presumed to be Agni’s vehicle – a ram. A male attender is near his left leg. There are two celestial beings (vidhyadharas?) on either side of the crown.

The supplementary panels also are interesting. The lower subpanels depict apsaras as usual. The upper left relief is a deity – probably Brahma. The right upper subpanel shows Shiva in the Andhakasura vadha pose.

More will follow.

Please also see Ashtadikpalakas of Raja Rani Temple from my earlier posts.

Reference: The Sun Temple at Modhera – A Monograph on Architecture and Iconography by Wibke Lobo

December 2021 – Stone stories


Apsara at Patan

This is one of the most popular apsara sculptures at Rani ki vav. She appears between the panels of Kalki and Buddha. She is heavily bejewelled. Her hair is combed back and held in place with a brooch and ends in a large bun.

Earring is large. The necklaces are heavy and cover the chest. The cummerbund is also elaborate and covers the waist and lower parts.

In her right hand, she holds close to her mouth an object which appears to be a lipstick, or a toothpick, or a rolled betel leaf. In her left hand, she holds a fish-shaped object – maybe a cosmetic container.

Both her feet are bare. A bearded dwarf is caressing or tickling her left foot. She is either unaware or enjoying it. A cat-like figure is near her left leg. She has anklets on both her legs. While the one on the right leg has four bands, the one on the left has only three.

Naga Kanya

Naaga kanyas – literally serpent damsels- are women from the underworld. Here is a naga kanya at Rani ki vav. She flanks the panel of Varahamurthy. The other side is flanked by an apsara.

Her facial features are similar to an apsara but she is devoid of any clothing. Her earlobe is pierced and long. The hairdo is simple. There are very few ornaments- a necklace, armlets, and bracelets, all made of pearls. A serpent coils around her body and she seems to be comfortable with it. She has a bowl in her right hand with a fish-like object and the serpent is feeding itself from it. Her left hand is above her head and the fingers are in prana mudra (tarjani mudra, according to some) there are three owls above her head and a peacock at her feet.

While naga kanyas are normally benign, there are stories in Indian folklore about ‘Visha kanyas’ – poison damsels. These are specially groomed women with venom in their bodies. They can – and are used to – entice enemies and kill them on intimate contact. Let us hope this figure is not something as macabre.

An apsaras at Rani ki vav, Patan

The Rani ki Vav at Patan, has many exquisite sculptures of apsaras, yoginis, and naaga kanyas representing the heaven, earth, and nether worlds. In this series, we will look at some of these in detail.

This apsara is flanking the panel of Bhirav. She has a sharp nose, an ornate hairdo, and earrings. The jewels too are so elaborate it covers almost the entire body.

With her left hand, she seems to be holding the beard of a dwarf who is clinging to her right leg. She is admonishing him with the right hand. Her left leg has a three-layered anklet while there is none on her right leg.

Varahamurthy at Rani ki vav

Exquisite Varaha Avatara at Rani Ki Vav, Patan

The Rani ki Vav is a UNESCO recognized site at Patan, Gujarat. It is about 125 Kms from the state capital, Ahmedabad. The step well was built in the 11th century by Rani Udayamati in honour of her husband Bhima of the Solanki / Chalukya dynasty. The well situated on the banks of river Saraswati was completely covered by sand and was discovered only in 1940. It was restored by the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1980s.

The 7 level well has several beautiful sculptures covering many avatars of Vishnu, celestial maidens, river goddesses, etc.

We will try to cover some of the prominent sculptures in this series.

We start with the Varaha avatar which is the 3rd avatar of Lord Vishnu. Vishnu took this form to rescue Bhoodevi from the clutches of Hiranyakshan.

This fiery episode is so gracefully presented in this panel. Varaha is lifting Bhudevi with his left elbow. The right hand hangs nonchalantly on his side. Bhudevi gratefully caresses the snout of Varahamurthy. Murthy carries his conch (Shank – Panchajanya, to raise the sound of the pranava mantra), and the Sudarshana Chakra. While the right foot is firmly on the ground, the left leg is bent and the foot is placed on a platform supported by two snake figures, probably Nagaraja and his Rani of the netherworld, with their bodies entwined like a reef knot. The slant of Varaha’s limbs and the body seems to give the required leverage. The overall effect is that of a moving picture. The picture is complete with the gada – the mace and the Padma chatra – the lotus like umbrella.

The figure is framed by smaller figures depicting some avataras of Vishnu in smaller frames topped with flaming torans. I could identify Kalki, Parasurama, Vamana, and Narasimha.

This panel is flanked by a naaga kanya and an apsara. More about them in another post.

Rani ki Vav is a UNESCO-listed World Heritage site. This 7-level stepwell is situated in Patan, in Gujarat on the banks of the river Saraswati. Queen Udayamati of the Solanki / Chalukya dynasty built this step well in the 11th century as a tribute to her husband. The silted site was discovered in 1940 and restored by the Archaeological Survey of India in the late 1980s. It is 213 feet long, 66 feet wide, and 92 feet deep.

All the seven levels have panels of sculptures of Hindu gods and images – over 500 principal ones and nearly 1000 minor ones. Though Vishnu’s various forms – Varaha, Vamana, Parasurama, Buddha, Kalki, Balarama, and Srirama – are prominent, there is an underlying theme of the feminine in the form of several apsaras (celestial), yoginis (earthy) and naagakanyas (of the netherworld).

The sandstone sculptures are in various degrees of erosion. However, the restoration is commendable and the overall experience leaves you stunned by the 11th-century Indian artisanship.

Rani ki Vav a top view

Mahishasuramardini on a Pillar

At the Ekambareswar temple, Kanchi

Yet another in the series, Mahishasuramardini. This time on a pillar in Ekambareswarar Temple, Kanchipuram.

Had to process it in Lightroom.

See my other posts also on this subject (click here)


Kannappa nayanar

The statue of Kannappa Nayanar in Darasuram, shows a fancy footwear worn by him. Kannappa nayanar was humble and uneducated hunter who became an ardent devotee of Shiva and is anointed as one of the 63 Nayanars (arubathi moovar – saints)

12 th Century C.E. BUilt by Rajaraja Chola II

The Airavateswara temple at Darasuram is one of the three great Chola temples. Built by Raja Raja Chola II in the 12th century, it is a UNESCO Heritage site known for its exquisite bas-relief sculptures. Darasuram is a suburb of Kumbakonam.

Does this chariot wheel remind you of the Sun Temple at Konark? The Sun temple was built almost 100 years after this Chola masterpiece.

Darasuram sculptures

The Airavateswara temple at Darasuram was built by Rajaraja Chola II in the 12th Century CE. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is known for the intricate sculptures.

Her we see a panel of dancing ladies. One is shown with multiple limbs indicating either the movement of one performer (something like multiple frames of a movie) or multiple performers behind the main one.  


Hanuman’s vaahanam

When I visited the Balamurugan temple (then under construction) in Saveetha College campus I was curious about the camels in the Hanumanji’s shrine. Later, I learnt that camel is one of the vehicles of Lord Hanuman.

I was even more intrigued to see on a pillar in Kacchabeswarar temple, Kanchipuram, a praying sage with a camel on the side. A quick search on the web did not yield any answers. Can any one of you fill up on what this sculpture represents?

A pillar in Sri Kachchabeswarar temple, Kanchipuram

Garuda

From Pavala vannar koil, Kanchipuram

Garuda, the legendary bird akin to Brahmini kite is the vaahana (vehicle) of Lord Vishnu. He is often depicted in the anthropomorphic form as above. He is a protector and powerful. The legend of Garuda appears in Buddhism and Jainism.

From Belur

From the Hoysala period temple at Belur, Karnataka.



Pastoral scene in the Krishna Mandapam, Mamallapuram.

Govardhan pooja is celebrated in certain parts of India today. The legend behind this is as follows:

The pastoral folks of Gokul used to pray with lavish offerings to Indra for rains. Krishna advised them that they should rather be praying to Nature in the form of hills, trees, cattle etc. rather than appeasing Indra.  The people followed Krishna’s advice and stopped the offerings to Indra. Indra was enraged and he unleashed torrential rains with thunder and lightning on the Braj region. Seeing the sufferings and potential danger, Krishna lifted the Govardhan Mountain with his little finger as an umbrella protecting the entire region, its people, cattle and natural resources.

Indra did not relent. For seven days and nights he unleashed his fury in the form of torrential rains. On the eighth day, seeing that Braj and its people are still well protected, he conceded defeat and realized that the boy Krishna was none other than Lord Vishnu.

This episode illustrates the role of nature and the respect we must have for the environment.

In many parts, Govardhan pooja is performed for a heap of rice and/or vegeatbles (Anna koot) or a mound of cow dung or earth. The day is also dedicated to worship of the cow as a mark of respect and thanking for providing us healthy sustenance.

Mahabalipuram has one of the finest bas relief sculptures of this pastoral scene in the Krishna Mandapam near Arjuna’s penance. (7-8 century C.E) [above].

The one in Halebidu from the Hoysala period in Soapstone is also exquisite

Halebeedu, Karnataka, 12 century CE. Soapstone
The sage with tiger’s feet

Vyaghra pada muni :

Vyaghrapada was a great devotee of Lord Shiva. He lived in a thillai forest near Chidambaram.

 He used to collect flowers in the morning for his daily puja. Seeing that birds and bees suck nectar from the flowers, he wanted to get flowers even before dawn so that they are untouched and fresh. For this purpose he had to go deep into the forest in near darkness. This involved walking over thorns and sharp stones. Consequently his feet were affected so badly that even his overall health deteriorated.  Seeing his plight Lord Siva gave him legs of a tiger to manage the rough conditions of the forest. Hence the name Vyaghrapaada .Vyghra – tiger: pada – foot.

Vyaghrapada lived in Chidambaram for many years. He was a contemporary of Sage Patanjali. Shiva eventually gave his darsan as Nataraja and both Vyghrapaada and Patanjali attained mukti.

From one of the pillars in the Azhagiya Nambi Temple, Thirukkurungudi – one of the 108 Vaishnvite Divya Desams.

Interestingly, though this temple is a Vaishnavite Divya sthalam, it has also many Shaivaite elements as the sculpture above.


August 2020 – Stone stories


Vishnu as Kurma and Shivalingam

This is a rare sculpture of Vishnu as koorma (tortoise) avatara worshiping a shiva lingam. On a pillar in the 16-pillared mandapam in front of Ekambareswara Temple Gopuram, Kanchipuram. The mandapam has several other sculptures on the pillars but indifferent upkeep with haphazard steel structures and flex posters mar the beauty.

Dvarapalakas literally mean ‘Guardians at the Gate’ . Most Hindu temples have the images of dvarapalakas at the entrance. They have a lot of common features, but there are some special features based on the presiding deity, the local practices and the Agamas. For example, the dvarapalakas in a Shiva temple will usually have trishul, damru, gada, etc.

These dwarapalkas in Vydeeswara Temple, Talakadu have the usual features and in addition, they have torsos shaped like a Nandi. This is unique and I have not seen this anywhere else.

The Vydheeswara Temple is located in Talekadu (or Talekad) in Karnatake. It is beleived to have been built by the Ganga Dynasty in the 10th Century.

There is also a story of the Curse of Talekadu. More about it later.

February 2020 – Stone stories


Shree Shiva Shakthi Vinayagar at Sivapraksham St.

On the Shree Shiva Shakthi Vinayagar koil gopuram at Sivapraksham St.

I had shared my album of post budget Pondy Bazaar with the IIMA- Chennai group. One of the alumni Mr Srikant pointed out that this Pillayar has a Shanku and Chakram, normally associated with Vishnu. Only after his response, I noticed this uniqueness.

I have no idea about how Pillayar came to have the Sangu and chakram, but I am aware that the masons and sculptors of gopurams take liberties with the terracotta or stucco figures that go on the gopuram, often deviating from the accepted norms of iconography.  If anybody has any other explanation, please do share it with the readers of this blog.


The boy and the crocodile

The boy and the crocodile

Sundaramurthy Nayanar was an eighth-century poet-saint and one of the most important Nayanars.

He is believed to have performed many miracles thanks to his great devotion to Shiva.

The Northern face of the gopuram at Kapali temple depicts one such miracle. During his journey through Kongu Nadu, he was informed about an eight-year-old boy who was swallowed by a crocodile at Avinashi (near Coimbatore). Using his divine powers Sundarar resurrected the boy, to the amazement of all. This event is commemorated every year as “Mudalai vaay pillai utsavam” on Panguni Uthram at the Avinashishwarar temple, Avinashi.


Mahishasuramardhini painted marble

Mahishasuramardhini painted marble

Mahishasuramardhini is another recurring theme in my posts.

Here, the medium is unique- painted marble.

18th Century CE from Jaipur Rajasthan. Exhibited at the Indian Museum Kolkata.

Ten-armed Durga is riding a lion as she slays the demon Mahisha. She is flanked by Ganesha and Kartikeya, which I found to be unique again. One of the other two female figures could be Saraswathi. The arch is embellished with paintings of the Durga legends. It is topped by a figure on a buffalo.

Next, we may see an ivory Durga.

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Submission of Naga King Apalala, ca 2nd C.CE, Loriyan Tangai

Submission of Naga King Apalala, ca 2nd C.CE, Loriyan Tangai

A relief from Loriyan Tangai region of Pakistan at the Indian Museum Kolkata.

The legend: In the Swat river of the Gandhara Kingdom, there was a naga king called Apalala. He used to harass the local residents and they, in turn, offered him a tribute to stop harassing them. Once when the tributes started dwindling, Apalala was furious and turned himself into a Dragon. He threatened to invoke floods in the Swat river and annihilate the community. At that time Buddha with Vajrapani was visiting that area to propagate his thoughts. Vajrapani used the weapon Vajra (lightning)  to bring down the mountain and subdue Apalala. Apalala submitted to Buddha and converted to Buddhism.

It was interesting to come across an article in Dawn (Pakistan) about the archaeological department invoking a slightly different version of this legend in the context of floods in the Swat valley. See story: https://www.dawn.com/news/563030


wooden chariot of Srirangapatnam

wooden chariot of Srirangapatnam

In ancient Hindu temples, you can find exquisite carvings not only on the temple walls and pillars but also on the temple chariots. Though these are in wood and of more recent vintage, the beauty of the carvings cannot be ignored.

The above dasavathara depiction on the temple chariot (ther) is from the Sree Ranganatha temple at Srirangapatnam.

One can clearly see Matsya, kurma, Varaha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parasurama, Srirama, Balarama, & Krishna.

Darpana sundari in soapstone in Belur

Darpana sundari in soapstone in Belur

The 11th Century Chennakesava temple build by the Hosalas have some exquisite sculptures in soapstone. the most iconic of them all is the Darpana Sundari – the beauty with the mirror.

Monolithic Neminatha statue

Monolithic Neminatha statue

The Thirumalai Jain Complex in Tamil Nadu consists of Jain temples and caves built/carved on or after 9th century CE. The most prominent feature here is the 30 ft tall (?) monolithic statue of Neminath believed to be carved in the 9th century.

Thirumalai is situated in Thiruvannamalai st. of Tamil Nadu. The nearest town is Arani.

the hill on which the Jain complex is situated

The hill on which the Jain complex is situated

caption id=”attachment_661″ align=”alignnone” width=”1259″]Standing Nandi at Baijnath temple, Himachal Pradesh Standing Nandi at Baijnath temple, Himachal Pradesh[/caption]

Nandi, Shiva’s vaahana is invariably depicted in sitting posture in all South Indian Siva temples. e.g. see my blog on Lepakshi.

However, in the Baijnath Temple in the Kangra district of  Himachal Pradesh the Nandi is in standing posture. This temple is about 8 or 9 centuries old and houses a Swayambhu linga. It is situated on the banks of river Binwa with a breathtaking view of the Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas.

Another curious feature was the image of man hanging from the Nandi’s tail. I searched the web to find the story behind this but could not find any lead.

Nandi's tail

Nandi’s tail

In this temple, you are required to leave outside all leather items, including bags, belts, etc. beside footwear.

Kaliya mardanam

Kaliya mardanam

A golu doll on sale on the streets of Mylapore.

Krishna dancing on the heads of Kaliya – the venomous king who was poisoning the natural resources and inhabitants of Vrindavan.

Ganapathy

Ganapathy

This is neither a Narthana Ganapathi nor an Uchishta Ganapathy. Seems to be a combination of the two.

Can anyone clarify?

From Madambakkam Sri Dhenupureeswarar temple, near Tambaram.


Taming of Nalagiri - Amravati Gallery

Taming of Nalagiri – Amravati Gallery

The subjugation of  Nalagiri

The Amravati Gallery in Government Museum, Egmore has several pieces of art from Amravati. Most of these are sculpted on a variety of marble like limestone.

One of the important sculpture here is a medallion depicting the scene if subjugation of the elephant Nalagiri.

The Nalagiri jataka goes something like this:

Buddha’s cousin Devadatta also joins the Sangha and becomes influential.  He also acquires some supernatural powers. However, he becomes jealous of Buddha and his popularity. He wins over some elements with his supernatural powers and tries in several ways to kill Buddha. He is unsuccessful in all attempts.

Finally, he persuades the royal elephant keepers to get the fierce elephant Nalapada (also known as Dhanapala) drunk with intoxicants and sent out to the marketplace where Buddha is expected.

Seeing the enraged pachyderm, people run helter-skelter. Even those watching from the balcony are worried.  In the melee, a woman drops her baby near Buddha’s feet. As Nalagiri is about to trample the baby and charge at Buddha, he does not lose his composure. Instead, he touches the forehead of the elephant and gently strokes it. Nalagiri not only becomes calm but seems to be completely subdued. It bows before the Buddha. Buddha delivers a sermon on dhamma to it.

The two-and-a-half foot diameter medallion from Amravati exhibited at the Madras Museum in Egmore clearly depicts the charging Nalagiri and the subdued Nalagiri. The crowd is terrified while Buddha and his disciple (Ananda?) are composed.     The details of the people in the balcony are also clearly visible. (View full size for better details)

Circa 200 C.E.

Satavahana

Madras Museum, Egmore

Excuse the poor quality of the photograph.

Three-legged figure

Three-legged figure

Three-legged figure

Is this three-legged dancer a saint or a God?

Doesn’t look like Bhringi who is normally emaciated.

From one of the pillars in the Eastern mandapam of Thirupporur temple.

Monolithic Stone Chain

monolithic stone chain

monolithic stone chain

The 100-pillar mandapam at Varadaraja Swami Temple was built around the 15th century by the Vijayanagar rulers. It is well known for the intricate carvings on the pillars. A well-known feature is the monolithic chains hanging from the corners of the mandapa. These chains form an integral part of the roof and have 12 links and an ornate pendant all carved out of a single granite piece.  A masterpiece in stone craft and an architectural marvel.

Muthheeswara Temple

Thirukurippu Thonda Naynar at Muthheswara Temple Kanchipuram

Thirukurippu Thonda Naynar at Muthheswara Temple Kanchipuram

Muthheswara Temple (not to be confused with Muktheswara Temple) is located in the busy Gandhi road of Kanchipuram famous for the Saree shops.

This is the place where Thirukurippu thonda nayanar who is the 19th in the line of 63 naayanars got Mukthi. He was a Vannar (dhobi) by profession and was a staunch devotee of Shiva. He used to wash the clothes of devotees as a service to Shiva. He was also well known for soothsaying based on face reading. Hence he got the title thirukurippu thondar.

To test his devotion and give him an opportunity for early mukthi, Lord Shiva appeared here in the form of an old devotee with dirty clothes. As was his wont, Nayanar offered to wash the clothes for him. The devotee warned him that he would need the clothes by nightfall as it was his only protection for the night. Due to clouds and rains, Nayanar could not deliver the dry clothes on time and was very agitated. To atone this, he tried to bang his head against a stone. Miraculously a hand appeared and supported him. Shiva appeared and blessed him.

This story was narrated to us by the temple priest.

Though the temple is in the middle of the bazaar, it is fairly big but a bit cluttered with structures. Fortunately, it is clean and the temple tank had some water

Krishna stealing the clothes of Gopis

 

Krishna Vastraapaharan Kanchipuram

Krishna stealing clothes – Kanchipuram

 

The story of Krishna stealing the clothes of gopis is an interesting and a recurring theme in many temple sculptures. I have already posted a couple of blogs on these with photoes from different locations.

Vastraaharan: Krishna and Gopis

Krishna at it again

The two pictures in this post are from Kanchipuram but from different sources. The one above is from a mandapam in front of the West entrance to Sri Varadaraja Perumal temple.

The one below is a mural from a private house near the Varadraja Perumal temple. It belongs to one of the descendants of Prativadi Bhayamkaram Annangaracharya. The paintings were done around 1930 and are need of restoration. The helpful owners opened up the door and showed us around all the paintings.

90- year old Wall painting Vastrapaharan

90- year old Wall painting of Vastraharan Lila

Many of my readers like the theme Stone Windows. At their prompt, I went through my archives and found one more photograph., a stone window from the Dharmeswarar Siva temple from Manimangalam (near Tambaram) taken about 11 years ago.

A recent visit to the Thirupparuthikundram Jain Temple in Kanchipuram added another carved stone window.

A stone window, Dharmeswar Temple, Manimanagalam

A stone window, Dharmeswar Temple, Manimanagalam

Manimanagalam is about 10 Kms from Tambaram on the Mudichur Padappai route. This was the theatre of the Pallava- Chalukya war of 7th C CE. The temple is believed to have been built by the Chozhas.

Here is one from the Thiuruparuthikundram Jain Temple from Jina Kanchi, Kanchipuram. this temple resembles a Hindu temple in architecture but the murals and idols are definitely Jain.

A carved knotted stone window from Jain temple at Thiruparuthikundram, Jin Kanchi

A carved knotted and braided stone window from Jain temple at Thiruparuthikundram, Jina Kanchi







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